Maurice and Samuel Dissels, Oyo

When Bay Area veteran chef Maurice Dissels opened Oyo, his buzzy South American restaurant in downtown Pleasanton, in 2019, he knew it would require three elements to be successful: great ambiance, great food and great service.

“We needed to create a menu from a land — and expand,” says Dissels, whose eatery is an homage to his grandmother and the flavors of his Guyanese heritage. “We’d have to educate some, and others would just come in and be excited, because they’ve had jerk chicken or street food doubles before.”

And that’s exactly what happened. Now in its fourth year, Oyo not only weathered the pandemic but has evolved into a sophisticated yet casual gathering place for exotic flavors you otherwise won’t find in the Tri-Valley. Dissels launched the menu with 30 or so dishes that rotate on a seasonal basis and over time has added 30 more that were living in his head.

Most recently, you’ll find Trinidadian channa; coconut-laced sea bass, or Run Down Fish; his grandmother’s Guyanese Cook Up Rice made with slow-cooked Mary’s chicken; brisket and oxtail with yellow split peas, vegetables, sweet chiles and fresh coconut; and a squid ink seafood paella that calls for fideo pasta, a type of pre-cut vermicelli popular in Venezuela, instead of bomba rice.

“It’s more absorbent of the flavors and colorates well,” says Dissels, who adds roasted garlic, Cajun spices and Oyo’s own hot sauce to the dish. “It’s umami-packed.”

Dissels says he is most proud of his son and general manager, Samuel, who has grown Oyo’s tropical beverage program to include seasonal caipirinhas and an array of rare, aged Demerara rums. He also credits his staffers, many of whom have been there since they opened. “It makes me very proud to eavesdrop on their conversations with customers and hear them talk about the culture of our food,” he says.