Are you having a good hair day? Did your child take his first step? Well, these everyday wins are just as important to celebrate as Christmas or Mother’s Day, proclaims Jocelyn Delk Adams in her delightful new cookbook, “Everyday Grand: Soulful Recipes for Celebrating Life’s Big and Small Moments” (Clarkson Potter, $32.50).
The cookbook, a follow-up to 2015’s “Grandbaby Cakes,” is a life-affirming, joy-inducing collection of 80-plus Southern-inspired comfort food recipes from one of the country’s most beloved Black food bloggers. Recipes range from Delk Adams’ grandmother’s cornmeal butter biscuits, which Big Momma made nearly every day for 80 years, to a potato salad so revered it is the cookout centerpiece to a black-eyed pea power bowl, which the author makes as fuel for runs but also “for celebrating your own ‘Rocky’ moment.”
Written during the pandemic with Olga Massov, “Everyday Grand” captures Delk Adams’ infectiously sunny personality with every party-dress-wearing page. That vibe is evident even in the heaviest of times, including shutdowns that kept this extrovert isolated and in the days following the murder of George Floyd, when Delk Adams had to have difficult conversations with White friends about what it means to be an ally. In those moments, she made Check Yo’ Privilege Cider-Smothered Pork Chops, which uses a common Southern braising technique.
There are many important recipes in this collection, but perhaps none as coveted as mac and cheese, which in Black culture is as obligatory — if not more so — as turkey on Thanksgiving, she writes. Learning to make it — “baked, period, full stop … we don’t stovetop in these streets” — is a rite of passage. It must be “creamy yet casserole-y” and several cheeses must be used.
The recipe, adapted from her Auntie Rose and shared here, features five cheeses, five cups combined whole milk and heavy cream and a kiss of bouillon. Make it for any holiday, opening night of your kid’s play or to greet the weekend.
The Ultimate Mac and Cheese
Serves 8 to 10
INGREDIENTS
1 chicken bouillon cube, such as Knorr
1 pound large elbow pasta
1½ cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1½ cups shredded mild cheddar cheese
1½ cups shredded Colby Jack or pepper Jack cheese (for a kick)
1½ cups shredded Gruyère cheese
1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1½ teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon mustard powder
½ teaspoon granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2½ cups heavy cream
2½ cups whole milk
½ cup sour cream
1½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon hot sauce
3 tablespoons minced fresh chives, for serving
DIRECTIONS
Fill a large heavy-bottomed pot with 5 quarts water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the bouillon cube and stir to dissolve. Add the pasta and cook until al dente according to the package instructions. Drain the pasta and slide to the side.
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 375 degrees.
In a large bowl, toss together the cheddars, Colby Jack, Gruyère and mozzarella until combined.
In a large heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking continuously, to form a roux, about one minute. Whisk in the garlic powder, onion powder, salt, black pepper, paprika, mustard powder, sugar, nutmeg and cayenne until incorporated. Whisk in the heavy cream, milk, sour cream, Worcestershire and hot sauce until combined and let the sour cream completely melt into the sauce. Whisk in half the shredded cheese mixture and let it melt completely into creamy deliciousness, whisking all the while. Whisk until the sauce thickens a bit, about 3 minutes, then add the drained pasta and stir to evenly coat it in the sauce.
Transfer a third of the pasta mixture to a 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking pan and top with a third of the remaining cheese mixture, then repeat two more times, finishing with the cheese. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the pasta is golden brown in places and the sauce is bubbling. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes, then garnish with chives and serve hot. May the cheese pulls be ever in your favor.
— From “Everyday Grand: Soulful Recipes for Celebrating Life’s Big and Small Moments” by Jocelyn Delk Adams (Clarkson Potter, $32.50)