



Many of you may have already been to Playa in Mill Valley and love it.
But, I want to introduce you to chef Michael Siegel, who splits his time between Playa and Corner Bar, and is responsible for the new and expanded Playa menu that was introduced last November. If you read my review of Corner Bar, you know how impressed I was with the food there.
I wanted to see if Siegel was as adept at Mexican cuisine as he is with Mediterranean food. His cooking background is certainly varied: a Jewish deli that honored his grandmother and time well spent at Bix, then Betelnut, all in San Francisco. Now, Siegel is utilizing those experiences in these Marin menus — both in flavors and expertise.
Just a couple of doors down from the Sequoia movie theater, Playa is the perfect place to have a drink or dinner before catching a movie. That seems to be the case for many since the couple of nights we ate there, the bar quickly filled up and just as quickly emptied just before showtime. And then it began to fill again, as did the restaurant, both inside and on the covered patio. It’s a busy place and reservations are recommended.
Julio Mejia, the accomplished lead bartender, was standing behind the long, stained concrete bar to the left as we entered. After being greeted and seated in the main room, I had a clear view of the kitchen and the expediter sending food out from the line. The production pace steadily increased while he remained calm.
My friend and I noticed that each member of the staff had a posture of pride in what they were a part of. That’s not just good training.
The bar and inside dining area are simply decorated with amber tea drop lights, bare wooden pedestal tables and black chairs on modern geometric squares of white, black and blue flooring.
My friend ordered a Playa Margarita ($13) and was loving it until she tasted my Santa Madre ($16), which was based on two different mezcals. The bar drinks are intricate and so well-executed. Mejia and the other bartenders are mixing so many ingredients that could go haywire but don’t.
The Queso Fundido con Rajas ($12.25) was ideal with our cocktails. A combination of white cheddar, Oaxaca and Monterey Jack cheeses, the dip was served in an oval ramekin hot from the oven. It was creamy and dippable. The house-made chips were sturdy and perfect for scooping up some of the melted cheese along with the roasted strips of onions and peppers.
The menu is easy to navigate. We wanted to taste several things so we avoided the large plates, and decided, after reading though all the options, to stay with nonmeat selections for the evening. Mexican cuisine is one that offers great options for vegetarians, vegans and those who are gluten-free.
The Arugula Salad ($16.75) was a visual, textural and flavor delight. Wild arugula was tossed with a mild yet tangy queso fresco, roasted pistachios and pepitas. When I had it, it came with roasted delicata squash, pomegranate seeds and a guajillo chile vinaigrette. There was just enough heat so the dressing enlivened but didn’t overwhelm the salad ingredients. Due to seasonality, the dish now has strawberries instead of pomegranate seeds, no squash and comes with a morita vinaigrette. I’m sure it’s just as great.
The vegan Chile Relleno ($17.95) was beautiful. Served on a gray pottery plate, the mound of the stuffed ancho chile was centered atop a two-toned base of roasted tomato salsa and refried beans, zigzagged with cashew crema and topped with a flurry of cilantro. This was not the battered and fried type of stuffed chile. The chile was roasted and stuffed with potatoes, plantains, and tofu chorizo. While filled with a number of soft ingredients, soft and mushy isn’t the takeaway from this dish. It was just full of complementary flavors and, though it was listed under antojitos, “little cravings,” it felt like a main course. It was deeply flavored and substantial.
Under the masa heading, we chose the Seasonal Vegetarian Quesadilla ($16.95). House-made blue and yellow corn tortillas were filled with the same trio of cheeses as the Fundido plus a blend of wild mushrooms. Toasty corn, mushrooms and cheese are a perfect trio of pleasure. The profound punch of the roasted tomatillo salsa served on the side elevated this quesadilla.
For dessert, we chose the Ice Cream with Salsa Macha ($13.75).
A big round scoop of ice cream was indented in the center. A little olive oil pooled there and coarse salt was sprinkled on top. The nutty, seeded chile salsa macha had been spooned around the rim of the ice cream. Tufts of crisped epazote leaves garnished the edges. The ice cream was a rich vanilla with large chunks of dark chocolate.
It’s a very pretty dessert and another nod to the chef’s penchant for accenting flavors with texture.
Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at ijfoodwalker@gmail.com.