Eggs used to be a nice, affordable way to stretch a meal or even to make them a centerpiece for breakfast, lunch or even dinner. But when prices hit the ceiling, we had to cut back and rely on other protein sources.

Now that eggs are more readily available, we can go back to our common pleasures. But let’s get away from just plain scrambled or fried eggs. And let’s understand what makes good eggs.

Egg whites are almost entirely water, with about 10% protein. It’s the yolk that has fat and more protein. Both parts of the egg are heat sensitive, making significant changes in taste and texture when cooked.

Eggs are a complete protein source, with about 72 calories, 6 grams of protein and 5 grams of fat, most of it unsaturated. They’re full of fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K, plus several B vitamins. They’re good for eye and brain health, muscle building and they may even help to promote good cholesterol levels.

What makes a good egg?

Good eggs come from good chickens. It’s as simple as that. Many chickens are confined to crowded cages all day long, where they may peck at each other, stressing the birds. In California, chickens must be free range, meaning they are free to roam outside their cages at least part of the day. That could be as little as one hour.

Pasture-raised chickens live primarily outdoors, where they can eat grass, insects and a wider variety of foods. This makes their meat and eggs higher quality and more flavorful.

A quality egg will have a deep yellow-orange yolk, and it will stand high and round when cracked open. The white will be thick, firm and not watery. Avoid any eggs with damaged shells.

If you’re not sure of an egg’s age, drop it into a glass of water. If the egg floats, it’s older. That’s because water evaporates through the shell as the egg ages, leaving a larger air pocket inside. Fresher eggs will stay close to the bottom of the glass.

Even older eggs are fine to eat, as long as they don’t have a bad odor or any indication of spoilage. In fact, slightly older eggs are better for boiling because they are easier to peel.

Temperature is important

Using low or medium heat to cook eggs helps to keep them tender. That’s why eggs cooked over high heat, including scrambled eggs, will become dry and rubbery. The heat rapidly evaporates all that water before it turns to steam and “fluffs” the texture. In fact, for even better scrambled eggs, add a teaspoon of water for each egg before beating with a fork. Making more steam will deliver a better loft.

For boiled eggs, start with cold eggs, and plunge them into boiling water. This helps to shock the shell away from the egg, making them easier to peel later. Cook for the prescribed time for hard (12 minutes) or soft boiled (7 minutes). Drain, run cold water over them and cool quickly in an ice bath. This helps prevent the green ring around the yolk.

By the way, when whipping egg whites for a meringue or soufflé, use a copper bowl or add a bit of acid like cream of tartar. The chemical action will keep the foam from collapsing.

Elevate eggs with herbs

Salt and pepper are fine, though pretty boring. How about a little adventure with flavor enhancements? Chopped chives have a gentle onion flavor, and parsley delivers a peppery taste. Basil adds a bit of sweet magic but try different kinds such as Thai basil. Use cilantro for Mexican or Asian dishes — although it does taste like soap to sensitive people! (Personally, I love cilantro.)

Add paprika for a good flavor. Mild paprika is made from sweet bell peppers, while spicy paprika comes from hotter peppers. Smoked paprika is literally smoked over hot coals, giving a deeper flavor. Go with cayenne for a bit of heat. How about a bit of exotic flavor with curry powder for deviled eggs, or za’atar, a Middle Eastern blend of thyme, sumac and ground sesame seeds.

“Everything” bagel seasoning adds crunch and savory flavor. Even mint or sage can add a new level of flavor to egg dishes.

Sprinkle these ingredients over the finished egg dishes or incorporate them directly into the mix. When frying eggs, try adding fresh herbs to the cooking oil before cracking the eggs into the pan.

Eggs really are a good, all-around source of protein and vitamins. But beyond that, they’re easy to cook, quite versatile and affordable — most of the time. As the slogan says, “It’s the incredible, edible egg.”

Asparagus problem solved!

Don’t you hate when you spend so much on asparagus, but it rots before you’ve finished the bunch? First, the tips get mushy, and then the stems grow soft. But I’ve finally solved that problem!

First, I wrap the heads in a paper towel, and then I stick the whole bunch into a brown paper bag. Then I’ll put all that into a loose plastic bag and store in the crisper drawer. This helps control the moisture that causes the “mush.” My asparagus now lasts about twice as long, or more.

If by chance, I notice some bits of mush later, I briefly whisk the tips in a small amount of boiling water to remove it. Then I rinse, and wrap again in paper towels. Don’t do this if there’s significant degradation. In that case, cut off the tips and use the stalks, assuming they’re still good.

Tip of the week

What’s the difference between seltzer water and club soda? Seltzer is simply artificially carbonated water, as opposed to sparkling water, which is naturally carbonated. But club soda contains added salts and minerals. You can taste the difference, as club soda has a more complex flavor.

Recipe of the week

Frittata is pretty much a quiche without the crust. This Italian version is derived from the word for “fried.” It makes a fast weekend breakfast, a special lunch or even an easy dinner. Serve with a salad for a complete meal.

Asparagus Frittata

Makes 4-6 servings

Ingredients

6 large eggs

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

3 ounces goat cheese, crumbled

1-2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

12 ounces thin asparagus, tough ends trimmed, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch pieces

1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, chopped

3 ounces Swiss cheese, shredded

Directions

1. Preheat broiler, with the rack about 6 inches below the heat. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, cream, salt and pepper until well blended. Stir in the crumbled goat cheese. Set aside.

2. Heat the oil and butter in a 10-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the asparagus and sauté until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes.

3. Stir in the sun-dried tomato to warm it up. Pour the egg mixture over the asparagus mixture, cover and cook for a few minutes until the eggs start to set.

4. Evenly sprinkle the Swiss cheese over the top. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue cooking until the frittata is almost set but the top is still moist, about 2 minutes. Place the skillet under the broiler until the top is set and is turning golden, about 5 minutes.

5. Remove from the oven, and let the frittata stand 2 minutes to firm up. With a silicone spatula, loosen frittata from skillet and slide it onto a plate. Or loosen and then cut into wedges, serving directly from pan. Accompany with a salad and crusty bread.