The spring awakening is upon us. At the market, asparagus is showing up, along with leafy young turnips and the first peas. But even beets can be springy when given a chance.

I craved a light, fresh meal to match the season. Earthy beets beckoned at the market in bright bunches, leaves attached. They were so fetching that it was hard to choose: the ruby-red or the sunny gold ones?

Though they take a while to prepare, freshly roasted beets are worth the effort. You can cook a dozen or so at a time and keep them in the fridge, at the ready for use in salads or soup. I wanted a zippy soup that hinted at borscht but not in a wintry way. So I seasoned and tempered sweet beets with a touch of vinegar, then whizzed them to a silky purée.

To contrast the soup’s rich flavor, I swiped a hefty amount of yogurt, dotted with tarragon and chives, across the soup’s surface. The good news is, it tastes good hot or chilled — and, I think, is best served in small portions.

On the West Coast, spring is the beginning of wild salmon season. There really is nothing quite like it: Wild salmon simply tastes better than farmed and is always a better choice, sustainably speaking. (Is it a splurge? Yes, except in places like Seattle.)

Whether you choose king salmon, coho or sockeye, take care not to overcook it: At the fish market, I ask for one large fillet. Then I lay it flat on a baking sheet and roast it in a moderate oven, just until white juices appear on the surface of the fish. This ensures moist, flaky salmon.

To enhance the fish, I mashed grated ginger and lime zest and juice into butter, to be smeared over the hot fillet. I used the same butter to quickly wilt a huge potful of baby spinach, which made a fine accompaniment. Their additions were in keeping with the theme of fresh, bright and springy — amplifying, not minimizing, the greens’ role.

Summer’s riotous bounty may get more attention, but the return of spring’s seasonal offerings to my basket feels like a true celebration. When I spied cherries on the market rounds the other day, it put a little pep in my step. Gorgeous, shiny cherries straight from the market are the ideal finish to a meal. Just put them in a big bowl and take them to the table — instant glorious dessert.

If, however, you feel a need to serve a “real” dessert, try these easy, slightly gussied-up cherries. It’s really a kind of simplified version of brandied cherries. The almond-cherry combination is classic; in fact, the two are botanically related. Serve a few of these cherries in little glasses, perhaps with some Italian almond cookies — but you’d get no complaints if you spooned them over vanilla ice cream.