Beet soup with tarragon, chives and yogurt

Freshly cooked beets, though they take a while to prepare (see note), are so delicious that they’re worth the effort. Cook them the day before you need them and keep them in the fridge for up to a week, to use in salads or for a soup. For this borscht-inspired soup, a splash of vinegar tempers the beets’ natural sweetness, which is perfectly complemented by a splash of tart herby yogurt. This soup may be served warm or chilled; each way is refreshing.

Makes: 6 to 8 servings

Total time: 40 minutes, plus time for cooking beets

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 pounds cooked, peeled red beets, chopped (see note)

Salt and pepper

Pinch of ground cayenne

1/4 cup red-wine or apple cider vinegar, plus more to taste

8 cups water or broth

1 cup whole-milk yogurt

3 tablespoons chopped tarragon leaves

2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives

1. Put olive oil in a heavy-bottomed soup pot or deep, wide skillet over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, cook slowly, stirring, until softened, about 10 minutes.

2. Add beets and season generously with salt and pepper. Add a pinch of cayenne and pour in vinegar. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add water and raise heat to a brisk simmer. Taste broth and adjust. Cook for another 10 minutes, until beets are completely soft.

3. Purée in a blender, in batches if necessary, and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. (Consistency should be like heavy cream, no thicker — thin with water or broth as necessary). Return puréed soup to pot and reheat. In a small bowl, combine yogurt with tarragon and chives. Add a good pinch of salt and beat with a fork to loosen yogurt.

4. Taste soup, and adjust for salt and vinegar. Ladle into individual bowls. Swirl a large spoonful (2 to 3 tablespoons) of herbed yogurt across surface of the soup.

Note: To cook beets, cut off the greens and reserve for another use. Wash beets well, put them in a low baking dish and add 1 inch of water. Put on a tightly fitting lid or wrap tightly with foil. Bake at 350 degrees until they are fork tender, about 1 hour 15 minutes. While beets are still warm, slide off the tough “skin” with the aid of a kitchen towel. Refrigerate cooked beets for up to a week.

Roasted salmon with ginger-lime butter

Wild Pacific salmon is available in spring and summer, and the flavor is phenomenal. It definitely tastes better than farmed salmon and is always a better choice, sustainably speaking. Though it is expensive, think of it as a seasonal treat. Whether you choose wild king salmon, coho or sockeye, take care not to overcook it.

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

1 (1 1/2 pound) wild salmon fillet, such as king or coho, at room temperature

Salt and pepper

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

2 tablespoons grated ginger

1 teaspoon lime zest

1 teaspoon lemon zest

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 pound baby spinach

Lime wedges, for serving

1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions, green and white parts

1. Lay the salmon on a rimmed baking sheet, and season with salt and pepper. Heat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Make the ginger-lime butter: In a small bowl, combine softened butter, ginger, lime zest, lemon zest and lime juice. Add salt and pepper to taste, and stir well to combine.

3. Transfer salmon, uncovered, to oven to cook for about 8 minutes. Check the salmon once or twice as it cooks. Depending on the thickness of the fish, it should be fully cooked when little white juices appear on the surface — moist and yielding with big flakes when probed. It may take 10 minutes for thick fillets.

4. As the salmon cooks, put 2 tablespoons ginger-lime butter in a wide, deep skillet or large pot over medium heat. When butter is melted, add spinach and a pinch of salt. Put on the lid and turn heat to medium-high. (You may need to add spinach in batches.) After 2 minutes, remove lid and stir spinach to help it wilt. When all spinach is wilted, turn off heat.

5. Transfer salmon to a platter or divide among plates. Smear remaining ginger-lime butter on fish. Surround with wilted spinach and lime wedges, and top with scallions.