My Cookinʼ with Karl weekly column is about presenting different food topics to give our readers something to think about and to get their creative juices flowing. I want my columns to inspire you to try new recipes at home, or to try new foods created by our great, locally-owned restaurants. Every now and then, I write about something that is just a bit out of the ordinary to peak my readerʼs interest and get them thinking outside the box.
Google “wild game dinner near me.” You wonʼt find one.
Hereʼs one: Gandalfʼs Pub in Valley City, owned by Sean Lackey, is holding its second annual Wild Game Dinner on Monday, Feb. 27. The restaurant is normally closed on Mondays, which means this is a reservation-only event with a special menu. It is only $60 per person (plus tax and gratuity), with doors opening at 6 p.m. and dinner served at 7 p.m. By the time you read this on Feb. 18, there is a chance it will already be sold out. Last yearʼs did. So if what you read here interests you, I would call and reserve your seat now.
It all starts with a chef who has great training and a diverse background. That would be Ed West, the head chef at Gandalfʼs Pub. Chef Ed West started his career in the culinary arts at a young age in many small, family-style restaurants before advancing his knowledge at Pennsylvania Culinary. Before graduating with honors, he had achieved two A.C.F. gold medals and one Best in Show. He moved to upstate New York to advance his knowledge working with some top chefs and local farmers, starting his passion for farm fresh. After helping to open the Springwater Bistro under Chef David Brittan with many accolades, he went on to work under Chef Patrick OʼConnel at the Inn At Little Washington. While working at the world-renowned restaurant, his passion for food grew. After moving back to his home town to be with family, he has worked at some of Clevelandʼs finer restaurants, such as Fire Food and Drink, Moxie, Lock Keepers, Bar Cento, Touch Supper Club, and now at Gandalfʼs Pub, where he works to bring farm fresh ideas and seasonal flare to the menu.
To me, having a trained chef prepare the wild game gives me a way to see how it “should” taste when done right. This yearʼs special dinner features duck, rabbit, quail, bison, and venison. If you are a hunter or are good friends with a hunter, chances are you have had most of these at some point in your life. Bison is also becoming more mainstream as a healthier meat than beef.
This yearʼs meal begins with a golden duck consume shooter, which is duck consume (a light broth) served in a glass with a real gold rim, and duck leg confit.
This is followed by BBQ rabbit pierogis served with caramelized onions and a saffron aioli. Wild rabbit, northeast Ohio style. I like it!
Next is Asian marinated quail, with wild rice pilaf, coconut curry, and cilantro oil.
This is followed by bison goulash. This is a braised bison cooked with bell peppers, onions, carrots, peas and pappardelle pasta.
Next is venison osso bucco. If you have been reading my column for a while, you know I have a special place in my heart for osso bucco. It is one of those true comfort foods that exudes a richness, earthiness and tenderness that is hard to compare to other dishes. This one is braised venison, so that will be a first for me. Served with a black lentil and kumquat stew in a truffle balsamic reduction.
And, for dessert, mini maple pecan pie with cinnamon ice cream.
What I like most about the set menu special dinners is that it gives these great local chefs a chance to stretch their wings, to showcase their talents. They are given the opportunity to pick the entire menu, guiding you from course to course the way that they think it should be. This takes us out of the decision makerʼs seat and lets the true professional help us to understand what they are trying to achieve. It is almost food art. It also lets you see that a real chef is at the helm, which makes future dining decisions easier to make.
Gandalfʼs Pub & Restaurant is located at 6757 Center Road, Valley City, Ohio, 44280. For reservations, call the restaurant at 330-483-1190.