The recommended technique for turning out the most tender and flavorful barbecued pork ribs is low-and-slow cooking in a smoker gently fueled with hardwood. Not a viable option for most home cooks. Instead, we’ll use the oven, which works just fine. When the ribs are rubbed with an aromatic spice mix before cooking, broiled for a few final minutes of extra browning, and served with your favorite smoky barbecue sauce at the table, you get close enough to the real deal for excellent eating — just right for a Father’s Day supper or July 4 celebration.

For the meatiest and most flavorful ribs, choose St. Louis style spareribs. These come from the belly of the pig and require that low-and-slow treatment to become tender. Baby back ribs are delicious in their own right — these are cut from the loin on the back of the animal — but suffer from a lower meat-to-bone ratio. If cooking the smaller baby backs, start checking them for doneness after two hours.

On the underside of the ribs is a tight membrane called silverskin. Remove this before applying the spice rub because the thick skin can cook up tough and rubbery. Slide a small, sharp knife under the membrane and, using a piece of paper towel in your hand, grab hold of the membrane and pull it off. To give the ribs a tasty crust, choose a variety of spices along with brown sugar for sweetness and caramelization. A spoonful of chipotle chile powder — chipotles are smoked jalapenos — brings a smoky component. Total cooking time will vary, depending on how thick and meaty the slabs are, so check them every 15 minutes or so after the 2½-hour mark. That last-minute trip to the broiler offers the final flavor punch.

Lisa Zwirn can be reached at lisa@lisazwirn.com.