Serves 4 to 5

2 racks (4½ to 5 pounds) St. Louis style ribs

? cup packed brown sugar

3 tablespoons sweet paprika

1½ tablespoons chile powder

4 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon chipotle chile powder (or ¼?teaspoon cayenne pepper)

1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon black pepper

Barbecue sauce (for serving)

1. Set the oven at 275 degrees. Have ready a large broiling pan or a large baking sheet lined with foil with a wire rack set on top.

2. Remove the membrane (silverskin) on the underside of the ribs. Rinse the ribs under cold water and pat dry.

3. In a small bowl, mix together the brown sugar, paprika, chile powder, salt, chipotle powder, oregano, cumin, and black pepper. Use the back of a spoon to break up any lumps of sugar.

4. Place the ribs on the pan, cutting them into smaller slabs, as necessary, to fit in a single layer. Sprinkle the spice mixture on both sides of the slabs, rubbing it into the meat to coat completely. Lay the ribs meaty side down on the pan.

5. Bake for 1 hour. Flip the ribs so they’re meaty side up. Bake for 30 minutes. Cover the pan with two sheets of foil (crimped along the edges to seal) and cook for an additional 1¼ to 1½ hours (a total of 2¾ to 3 hours), or until the meat is very tender. The tip of a small, sharp knife or kitchen fork should slide easily through the thickest part of the rib meat. Remove from the oven and let rest, uncovered, for 15 minutes. (If making ahead, let come to room temperature, then refrigerate, wrapped in foil, for up to 2 days.)

6. Set an oven rack about 6 inches below the broiler heating element and turn the broiler on high.

7. On a cutting board, cut between the bones to separate the racks into individual ribs. Return the ribs, meaty side up, to the pan. Broil for about 5 minutes or until the spice rub on the ribs is sizzling and the ribs are nicely browned.

8. Arrange the ribs on a platter. Pass the barbecue sauce separately. Lisa Zwirn

Lisa Zwirn can be reached at lisa@lisazwirn.com.