Serves 6

Kung pao chicken, a popular stir-fried dish that originated in Sichuan, China, is believed to be named after a Qing Dynasty governor with the official title of “kung pao,’’ or palace guardian. It is traditionally prepared with nuggets of chicken, hot chiles, and peanuts, but you can vary it, substituting pork or seafood and adding vegetables. Organize all the ingredients by the stove before cooking, so that the food can be flash-cooked and served piping hot from the pan.

1½ pounds raw medium shrimp, peeled and butterflied

1 piece (3 inches) fresh ginger, finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)

7½ tablespoons rice wine or sake

4 tablespoons cornstarch

1 pound snow peas, ends trimmed

1 can (8 ounces) whole water chestnuts, drained and cut into thin slices

2½ tablespoons olive oil

4 scallions, finely chopped

5 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons hot chile paste with garlic

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped

2¼ cups chicken stock or water

7 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons sugar

4 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar or Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

6 tablespoons water

1½ cups (6 ounces) salted cashews

1. In a bowl, mix the shrimp with 1 tablespoon of the chopped ginger, 3 tablespoons of the rice wine or sake, and 1 tablespoon of the cornstarch. Let sit for 20 minutes.

2. Have on hand a large bowl filled with ice water. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the snow peas and cook 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the snow peas to the bowl of ice water and let cool. Drain thoroughly in a colander.

3. Return the water to a boil. Add the water chestnuts and cook for 15 seconds. Drain and rinse under cold, running water.

4. Drain the shrimp in a colander. In a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil until it shimmers. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring often, about 3½ minutes, or until the shrimp is cooked through. Drain in a colander.

5. Clean out the skillet and reheat over high heat with the remaining 1½ tablespoons of oil. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons chopped ginger, scallions, garlic, and hot chile paste and cook for 30 seconds, stirring often, or until very fragrant. Add the red pepper and cook, stirring often, for 2 minutes, or until crisp-tender. Stir in the water chestnuts.

6. Add the chicken stock or water, soy sauce, remaining 4½ tablespoons rice wine or sake, sugar, vinegar or Worcestershire, and sesame oil. Cover and bring to a boil. Stir together the water with the remaining 3 tablespoons of cornstarch. Slowly add the mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce comes to a boil and thickens. Stir in the cooked shrimp, snow peas, and cashews. Cook, stirring often, until hot and coated with the sauce. Serve with rice. Nina Simonds

Nina Simonds can be reached at spoonfulofginger@gmail.com.