I was downriver when my husband, Ben, stuck his first trout on the Arkansas River.

We’d hired a guide, Liam, from The Next Eddy, 129 W. First St., to take us out for the morning, and Ben was a natural. He’d grown up fishing on lakes in Indiana and had been contemplating fly fishing since we moved to Colorado in the early 2000s.

Twenty-plus short years later, here we were, at the Arkansas Headwaters, a Hoosier and his plant-based wife, learning to flick impossibly long rods into some of the county’s premium Gold Medal waters.

If the Arkansas flows with extra swagger near Salida, that’s probably because the 100-mile stretch of river from Leadville to Cañon City claims premium, trout-rich waters teeming with stocked fish.

Still, I’d always been a Buena Vista gal, and while I’d driven past Salida countless times, I’d never stopped to explore the state’s largest historic district.

Buena Vista and Salida might be close, but they have different personalities.

Summer in Salida is something to celebrate—avoid the crowds over the Fourth of July and on Father’s Day weekend, when an insane whitewater boating festival, FIBArk, takes over the town during the Arkansas River runoff (June 12-15 this year).

Hammered out as a railroad depot town in 1880, Salida buzzes with outdoor enthusiasts, and yet it doesn’t typically draw the overwhelming number of tourists you’ll find in larger mountain communities.

Riverside Park, 170 E. Sackett Ave., is a downtown hub with great people-watching and easy water access.

You’re welcome to fish here in town; if you’d like solitude, wander a few hundred yards up or down.

Hiring a guide is highly recommended for those new to fly fishing.

The Next Eddy and ArkAnglers, 7500 U.S. 50, are Salida’s full-service fly shops. Both outfitters specialize in guided fly-fishing trips for all experience levels, including beginners like me.

Take note: Local rafting companies offer fishing excursions, too, but fly-fishing isn’t the primary focus.

While walk-ups can sometimes be accommodated at both, booking guided trips in advance is a good idea.

“We have a fairly lax cancellation policy,” The Next Eddy co-owner Sarah Medved assured me.

I can vouch for this policy since I had to rebook twice. Both outfitters prefer handling bookings over the phone to ensure each client is matched with the right trip. Call 719-530-3024 and 719-539-3474, respectively, to set something up.

Aside from a backpack with extra layers and water, you won’t need to bring much on a guided trip. “Come as if you’ll go hiking in Colorado for a day, and don’t forget waterproof socks,” Medved said.

After checking in at The Next Eddy and being fitted for waders and rods, Ben and I followed Liam past the Mt. Shavano Hatchery, 7725 County Road 154, to a quiet fishing hole. There, we spent the rest of the morning learning to use our gangly poles on a half-day walk-and-wade excursion that included four hours on the water.

More experienced anglers might consider a full-day high-alpine trip. But be warned: Eight hours on the water is intense, even for seasoned fishers.

Ben didn’t need much practice. A few minutes into the excursion, he raised his rod, and before I could say arbor knot, Liam, who’d been teaching me how to cast, was bounding toward his star student.

Since I wasn’t confident wading, I stayed put and watched from afar as a celebratory “fish-catch montage” unfolded to the soundtrack of burbling water. When you’re knee-deep in the Arkansas, all you hear is snowmelt galloping toward the Mississippi.

Amid the merrymaking—fist bumps; photo documentation—I continued casting. Despite Liam’s best efforts to teach me about drag-free drifts, my line had plans of its own.

Liam beamed with the pride of a new parent. “Rainbow trout,” he reported.

“Colorado’s state fish!” I said.

“No,” Liam corrected with a shake of his head. “That would be the Greenback cutthroat. Rainbow trout aren’t even native to Colorado.”

Really? A few hours later, when our four hours were up, I insisted on a quick fact-checking detour to the hatchery.Anyone can pop in during operating hours, 8 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., to watch a short educational video and tour the facility. It’s a no-frills experience, to be sure, but if you’re traveling with kids, they’ll love tossing fish food into the long, rectangular tanks, watching trout ripple the water in a feeding frenzy.

Liam was right, of course: Rainbow trout might be one of Colorado’s most beloved fish—they’re stars in the state’s multibillion-dollar fishing industry—and yet, from a biological standpoint, they really don’t belong here.

In the late 1800s, nonnative trout—rainbows, browns, and brookies—were introduced throughout Colorado’s rivers and lakes during the metal and mining boom, for food and sport, often in areas that once provided habitat for native cutthroat populations.

“It was popular back then to stock the landscape and see what stuck,” said Colorado Parks and Wildlife aquatic biologist Alex Townsend.

I wanted Townsend to tell me that the trout live together in perfect harmony, but that’s not how the story goes. Over time, competition and interbreeding significantly diminished native fish numbers.

Colorado Parks and Wildlife is working hard to reintroduce native species like the Greenback cutthroat, which now occupy less than 2 percent of their original range. The organization doesn’t have the wherewithal to restore all the rivers to native fish, so it also focuses on preserving introduced species, including rainbow trout.

In the 1990s, a parasite, whirling disease, tore through fisheries across Colorado, nearly wiping out rainbow trout. Several years ago, thanks to state government intervention and a discovery that led to an innovative crossbreeding program, a unique strain, the Gunnison River rainbow trout, emerged as a disease-resistant fish.

Efforts to support native and nonnative fish populations are unfolding simultaneously. Maybe this is the message of hope I sought.

As for what you’re likely to catch in Salida, brown trout dominate. Higher up in the drainage, rainbow and brook trout appear more frequently.

Anglers interested in “unique opportunities,” as Townsend put it, can head to alpine lakes and springs to try netting golden trout and Arctic graylings.

I was parched, so I stopped at Mountain Phoenix Roastery, 112 W. Rainbow Blvd., just off U.S. 50. From there, I linked up with local artist and walking guru Jonathan Stalls, author of the 2022 title “WALK: Slow Down, Wake Up, and Connect at 1-3 Miles per Hour.”

Stalls was happy to point me to his favorite Salida footpaths, including the paved Rodeo Run Trail (sometimes referred to as the CR 120 Trail), a 3.3-mile route from Salida to Poncha Springs, and the Monarch Spur Trail, a 2.5-mile rail-trail, also paved, from the Arkansas River to Highway 50.

For a post-fishing hike with panoramic views of downtown, Stalls recommended crossing the Arkansas River on F Street and walking through the parking lot to reach the Arkansas Hills Trail System. Also known as the Tenderfoot Trails, this hiking area features an interconnected network of dirt singletrack.

“I’ll usually walk a route that combines the following trails: Lower Sand Dunes, Frontside, Backside, Little Rattler, Burn Pile, Dream On, Rise N Shine & Labyrinth,” Stalls told me. Hiking up to the “S” from here is also possible.

“When I’m looking for a more meditative walk,” Stalls added, “I take the Salida River Trail to Franz Lake. It’s a beautiful, calming gravel path moving from Marvin Park, through Sands Lake, under 291, and to/around Franz Lake,” he said.

Before parting ways, Stalls walked me around downtown Salida’s two main throughfares, F Street and Sackett Avenue. The town isn’t just charming: It’s the state’s largest historic district.

Today, many of the area’s 136 well-preserved historic buildings house craft coffee shops, boutiques, restaurants, and art galleries that trickle toward the water on side streets moving as effortlessly as individual tributaries.

For more local lore, visit the Salida Museum, 406 1/2 W. Rainbow Blvd., located directly behind the Salida Chamber of Commerce. It is open weekends only from noon to 4 p.m.

Salida is also a certified “Creative District.” Around town, you’ll find artisans of every genre, from blacksmiths and potters to fiber artists, muralists, graphic designers, photographers, and fine artists.

Galleries and studios stay open late on the first Friday of the month for First Friday Art Walks.

All the fresh air is bound to make you hungry. Locals rave about Boathouse Cantina, 228 N. F St., boathousesalida.com, a riverside American-Baja Mexican joint serving pizza, burgers, tacos, and much more.

Try Tres Litros Beer Company, 118 N. E St., and the newly opened Salida Distillery, 110 E. 15th St., for drinks.

If you need a grab-and-go option before getting on the water, try The FlaminGo, 10538 W. U.S. 50, a food truck in nearby Poncha Springs. The online reviews aren’t wrong: Sweetie’s Sandwich Shop, 129 W. Sackett Ave., is a solid choice for a quick lunch.

The Salida Hot Springs Aquatic Center, 410 W. Rainbow Blvd., is a family-friendly rec center in town.

If you want to unwind after an adventurous day, do yourself a favor and drive to Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort, 15870 County Road 162 (Nathrop). This resort offers natural soaking pools and postcard-perfect views of the Collegiate Peaks.

Following County Road 162 for another 16 miles, you’ll reach St. Elmo Ghost Town. The former gold and silver mining camp provides an enjoyable glimpse into the past.

With so much to do, staycationers might consider staying a night or two. The recently renovated Manhattan Hotel, 228 N. F St., offers comfortable accommodations in the heart of downtown.

For an authentic Colorado experience, remember that the area is surrounded by BLM and Forest Service land, making dispersed camping abundant and easily accessible. You’ll also find plenty of vacation rentals with Victorian-era charm.

Catch a live performance at the Salida Rotary Amphitheatre in Riverside Park to close out a perfect day in Salida.

As the last notes fade into the cool night air and the Arkansas delivers its burbling lullaby, you start to feel that Salida isn’t merely a destination to visit but a special place to return whenever possible.