I used to throw corn on the barbecue and cook it until I thought it was done. This method was hit-or-miss and often resulted in an overcooked cob and charred corn silk stuck between my teeth. However, learning how to grill corn properly has made all the difference in how I enjoy it.

Enjoyment starts with selecting fresh, appealing corn. I look for husks (outer coverings) that are bright green and fit snugly around each ear. I then peel back the husk slightly to see if the kernels are arranged in tight rows right up to the tip of the corn.

If they aren’t, I set that ear aside and search for another. I also check for rot. If the kernels at the top are brown, I move on.

Here’s how to prepare corn for grilling (and where barbecue purists and I part ways). The purist will argue that you should peel back the husk and remove all the corn silk. Then, fully immerse and soak the corn (with husks) in cold water. After soaking, remove the corn from the water.

I find it hard to get all the silk off the ear without disturbing the husk. So, I make it easier. After soaking the corn in water, I peel off the husk. Then, I gently scrub all the corn silk off the ear before it goes on the grill. Since the corn has absorbed moisture during its water bath, it stays moist enough once it comes off the grill, and it has beautiful grill marks.

Once the corn is grilled and ready to eat, what do you serve with it? I enjoy grilled corn just fine without any seasoning except a bit of salt. More often than not, however, I slather the hot corn with a butter-based spread. I recommend the chile butter spread included below. There’s something about the combination of chile and cumin in this spread, especially when prepared with a touch of honey, that works so well with grilled corn. Please try this chile-cumin butter at least once, and if you have a chance, let me know how you like it!

Yield: Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

8 tablespoons unsalted butter (room temperature — divided use)

1 tablespoon chile powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

¼ teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon honey

6 ears of corn

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat the grill to medium heat (about 350 degrees).

2. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add the chile powder and cumin, and stir for 10 seconds. Remove from heat and transfer to a medium bowl. Incorporate the oregano, salt, garlic powder, onion powder, honey and remaining butter into the bowl. Whip until smooth and then transfer to a small serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

3. Prepare corn for grilling by soaking it in cold water for 20 minutes. Remove the corn and shake off excess water, then remove all husks and corn silk.

4. Grill the corn until it’s charred in spots, turning it three or four times over a total of about 15 minutes. If you have a grill cover, lower it between each turn. Transfer the corn to a large platter and serve with chile-cumin butter on the side.

Randy Graham is a private chef and author whose cookbooks include “The Ojai Valley Cookbook,” “The Ojai Valley Vegetarian” and the “The Ojai Valley Vegan.”