The January opening of Coho in Mill Valley provides Marin County with its first fine-dining level establishment that is almost exclusively dedicated to sustainable seafood and seasonal veggies.

Espousing mindful, sustainable, local-sourcing practices is nothing new on Marin menus, but thus far, a lineup fully devoted to seafood has been more prominent in the fast-casual arena (Fish in Sausalito and Hook Fish in Tam Valley) and to restaurants on the banks of Tomales Bay.

Cousins and business partners Felicia Ferguson and Luigi Petrone of neighboring Piazza D’Angelo, the four-decade-old Italian trattoria they took over from their fathers five years ago, are behind downtown’s latest dining destination.

“We’ve been building relationships with amazing fishermen, farmers and purveyors, and continue to add more,” says Ferguson about the network of suppliers that their chef and partner David Kornell has built to help execute their culinary vision.

Seafood is sourced from Water2Table and TwoXSea, both based in San Francisco. The frequently changing menu recently featured oysters with fennel and bay leaf enhanced mignonette; seared albacore tuna with sun-dried tomato, green bean, egg and potato gaufrette, fancy waffle-cut potato chips; McFarland Springs grilled trout filet with green lentils, cauliflower and parsley; glazed black cod with horseradish and honey mustard, charred sweet potato, bok choy salad and black vinegar reduction; and Dungeness crab egg noodles with spinach and garlic.

Naturally leavened, organic sourdough bread is from Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco and comes with house-churned butter; Santa Rosa’s Triple T Ranch and Farm cut-and-dip pea shoots are served with carrot dressing and sunflower crumble; and Star Route Farms from Bolinas mixed greens, golden beets and roasted carrots are tossed with salsa verde vinaigrette.

Carnivores will appreciate the chop from Mountain View Pork, a pig farm in Turlock, and vegetarians the grilled maitake mushrooms with Puy lentils.

Chef Kornell, who relocated from the East Coast, has worked in restaurants since his early teens in Rockland County, New York, gathering experience and momentum on his fine dining trajectory. Mentors along the way include restauranteur and “Iron Chef” winner Peter Kelly and renowned New York chef Gray Kunz. Kornell was behind the opening of several Blue Ribbon Restaurants group concepts in New York, Las Vegas, London and Vermont. In 2015, he founded Kornell Konsulting that later transitioned to GrateFULL Living Hospitality.

The awaited illumination of the downtown Mill Valley corner storefront space left empty by Mill Valley mainstay Vasco in late 2020 reveals a crisp redesign by ROY Hospitality in San Francisco.

The bar is now at the rear of the restaurant where the Vasco pizza oven had been, opening the interior and leaving space for tables along the front windows. Creative cocktails such as the Coho with herb gin, pink elderflower, Cocchi Americano and lemon oil, and the Seaworthy Vessel with Japanese blended whiskey, Cardamaro, lime and egg white are being poured along with mostly California wines.

Coho is open from 5 to 9 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays at 106 Throckmorton Ave. in Mill Valley. Find additional details and make reservations at cohomv.com or call 415-888-2265.

Herring fest

This year’s 10th annual Sausalito Community Boating Center (SCBC) Herring Festival gathers local chefs and enthusiasts to mark the seasonal arrival of the humble delicacy in Richardson Bay, one of the last places in California that herring spawn. This year’s event takes place from 4 to 7 p.m. Sunday in the waterside banquet room and patio of the Spinnaker restaurant at 100 Spinnaker Drive in Sausalito.

Meander among a variety of unique tasting stations and sample dishes featuring the shiny forage fish that’s rich in protein and omega-3s. These are prepared by Sushi Ran, Davey Jones Deli, California Caviar Co., private chef Maria Finn of Flora & Fungi wild food adventures and San Francisco Herring Co. After the sun sets, magician and mentalist Brad Barton takes the stage for an interactive magic show.

Ticket, raffle and silent auction proceeds help raise funds to support the SCBC’s push to open and provide affordable access to the waterfront while preserving Sausalito’s fishing and maritime history and agenda of environmental stewardship.

Find more about SCBC and links to purchase individual ($75) and sponsor level tickets at sausalitoboatingcommunity.org.

Something sweet

Entirely unrelated to fish, but in anticipation of Valentine’s Day on Feb. 14, there are a few spaces left at the Mon Rêve Chocolate Art Studio workshops from 1 to 3:30 p.m. on Feb. 4, 5, 11 and 12 in Mill Valley.

Learn the art of chocolate making and craft 20 custom-designed, hand-painted, heart-shaped chocolate bonbons piped with dark chocolate salted caramel ganache. Each participant leaves class with five packaged and giftable creations of four bon bons each (retail value $80).

Classes ($205, limited to 10 participants) are at the Mon Rêve studio at 129 Miller Ave. on the second floor. Register at monrevechoc.com or call 415-569-0057.

Leanne Battelle is a freelance food writer and restaurant columnist. Email her at ij.lbattelle@gmail.com with news and recommendations and follow on Instagram @therealdealmarin for more on local food and updates on the launch of The Real Deal Marin restaurant search guide.