Climbers are notorious for obsessing over to-do lists of climbs, things we often call “tick lists.” Some lists are whimsical, without geographical or chronological constraints, while others, more precise, evolve into a plan. On December 11, Vasya Vorotnikov completed a creative — if daunting — local tick list he calls the “Flatirons Top Pursuit.” This Herculean task includes the 64 most difficult routes in the Flatirons, all graded 5.13a or harder.
What I love about this challenge is that it’s conceptually simple and accessible: here’s the list, they’re in our backyard, go do ‘em! In practice, however, it couldn’t be more opposite.
For starters, some of the harder climbs on the list are traditional routes with few, if any bolts. Harder “trad” climbs tend to have less gear, so they require mental composure and a willingness to risk potentially dangerous falls. Notably, Cheating Reality (5.14a R) on Devil’s Thumb is among the more serious trad routes in the country.
And then there’s the single hardest pitch, Made In Time (5.14c) — an extreme and aesthetic sport route up The Maiden first climbed by Vorotnikov in 2020. One of Colorado’s most difficult climbs, several pro climbers have attempted it over the years, but so far no one else has been able to climb it successfully.
Perhaps best of all, Vorotnikov views this pursuit as an ongoing project. I asked him how long he plans to keep up to date with the Flatirons Top Pursuit (FTP) and he said, “Just as long as I can! I find all the new ones to be pretty cool.”
Indeed, just a few days after he sent Queen Line (5.13c, 3 pitches), his last of the 64 routes, he learned of a new 5.13 on the Third Flatiron established by local pioneer Max Barlerin. But Vorotnikov is quick to pounce: with continuing stable weather, he plans to have it done by the time this is published.
Vorotnikov, 37 years old, grew up in Moscow and moved to New Hampshire with his family when he was 13. He started climbing outdoors in Crimea at 9 years old, but most of his early years were spent on indoor walls. Portending his incredible talent and drive, Vorotnikov advanced quickly, winning multiple Russian Youth Nationals and competing in World Championships. Once in the U.S. he continued competing and also climbed outdoors whenever possible. In 2007, he made the first ascent of Jaws II (5.15a) in New Hampshire, one of the first routes of the grade in North America. He then won Youth Nationals in the U.S. three times and, after gaining citizenship in 2012, promptly became National Sport Climbing Champion.
He moved to Arvada in 2014 for an internship at the National Renewable Energy Lab. “I did computational chemistry research to help make chemicals out of biomass,” explained Vorotnikov. After several years behind the computer and not getting enough outdoor climbing, he moved on to coaching and guiding for Golden-based Denver Mountain Guides. He’s now head coach for Team 5281, a strong and competitive youth team, and he offers private instruction, as well.
Surprisingly, Vorotnikov had never climbed in the Flatirons until March 2020, when he started with one of the best (and most difficult), I Am The Walrus (5.14a). That year, amid the pandemic, he ticked three more of the Flatirons’ most challenging climbs.
“At some point I hit 30 or 40 (FTP) routes, and I was like, ‘Oh I’m really close!’” he said. But season after season more new routes were added, upping the total number. “I kept pursuing it and having about 10 left. And finally this year I was like, OK, I actually want to finish this now.”
In addition to playing FTP whack-a-mole as new routes spring up, he enjoys climbing all across the Front Range, where his “tick list” of hard local routes is unmatched. He prioritizes meaningful day trips over traveling to climb. “I really like the mini-adventure of it,” he said, (along with a preference to sleep in his own bed). Most of all, he loves long climbing days, sweeping views, great company and the hardest routes he can find.
Contact Chris Weidner at cweidner8@gmail.com. Follow him on Instagram @christopherweidner and X @cweidner8.