




Marin caterer Deb Lencioni Keith opened Kitchen on April 3, 2023, after catering both small and large events for 30 years. (She still continues to cater events.) This takes a lot of energy and passion. I’d heard from several readers that Kitchen was a jewel that I should check out. So, a couple of my dining companions and I set out to taste for ourselves.
My friends had arrived and were seated at one of just a few tables. Entering, I passed by the visually enticing pastry display and joined my friends to peruse the menu. We made our selections and approached the counter to order. Cruz was working the counter and enthusiastically answered all our questions about the pastries on display. Ordering lunch could wait until we got the important matters settled. Cruz explained that Sam Salman, Kitchen’s pastry chef, makes the desserts using his own and Keith’s recipes. He comes into the restaurant’s kitchen in the evening to do his prep. We each chose a dessert and Cruz offered to set them aside until after we’d eaten our lunch.
A step down the counter and we put in our lunch order.
Gathering up our napkins, utensils and glasses of water, we returned to our table and shortly were brought our orders.
I noticed a couple of tables near us had only come in for dessert while others were eating from either the all-day breakfast menu or the lunch menu.
Kitchen is a cozy place with limited seating both inside and outside. Inside, it’s brightly lit with little bouquets of flowers on each table and a community bulletin board on one wall.
We concentrated on the lunch items. The Curried Chicken and Apple Toast ($14) arrived first followed by the Italian Tuna Salad ($14), Kitchen Grain Bowl ($18) and finally the Grilled Tri-Tip Sandwich ($18). Seem like a lot? Hey, we were researching. You need to know!
Our table was covered with wooden plates filled with purples, reds and greens, and each garnished with a purple orchid.
Red cabbage was the base of our tuna salad. Cannellini beans bonded with the tuna and drew intense flavors from the lemon, olive oil and capers. A diversity of flavors and textures elevated every ingredient. This may have been the table favorite.
The grain bowl was not in a bowl. Instead, the ingredients were divided into quadrants on a large wooden platter: garbanzo beans, quinoa, roasted bell peppers, broccoli, carrots and arugula with slices of avocado in the center. A lemony tahini dressing is served on the side. That day, the dressing had been left off, but manager Julie Rhodes, who had checked in to see if all was well, retrieved it and also brought a lemon vinaigrette. Both were good but I liked the vinaigrette more. Its lightness accentuated the flavors rather than just coating the grains, greens and veggies.
The next two items both included bread from Petaluma’s Della Fattoria. The Tri-Tip Sandwich is also available as a wrap for an additional $3. But the lovely campagne bread is not to be missed. Medium-rare beef slathered with an herbed aioli was layered with sharp cheddar and baby arugula. It’s a simple but excellent sandwich. The Pesto Grilled Chicken Sandwich ($17) was tempting and also comes on the Della Fattoria campagne.
The Curried Chicken and Apple Toast was a table favorite. Atop toasted currant-walnut bread, the two open-faced sandwiches popped with flavors of Dijon dressing, apples and raisins. A bed of arugula cushioned the chicken salad and a scattering of toasted almonds added a bit of crunch.
Dessert time. We had ordered the Bread Pudding ($12), Rustic Fruit Tart ($12) and Butterscotch Budino ($14).
Cruz warmed up the bread pudding and fruit tart, and Julie delivered them to us and took our coffee order.
We each ordered a Cortado ($3.50). The coffee from Vallejo roaster Moschetti was rich, round and mellow.
The blueberry-studded bread pudding resembled an oversized cupcake tower. It was densely cakey yet very moist, a little caramelized on the top and utterly delicious — not at all the soggy sort of bread pudding, not that those can’t be tasty, too. This one was juSt special in all its aspects.
I normally stay clear of pies and tarts since so often I’ve found the crusts to be inferior to the fillings. This was definitely not the case. All components were of superior quality. The mixed berries were juicy and not overly sweet. The crust tenderly enveloped the fruit. What a pleasure.
Budino is a richer, eggier style of pudding. The butterscotch was outstanding in its velvet assault on the palate. Then to guild the lily, Chantilly cream was piped on top and an almond tuile, in disc form, crowned the cream.
As we were leaving, Rhodes handed each of us a little pink heart. This has become a tradition they started on their first anniversary. With their second one coming up next month, they want guests to know “you’re the heart of our restaurant.”
Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at ijfoodwalker@gmail.com.