Brussels sprouts just may be the vegetable that staves off the winter blues. Embrace these green orbs whenever possible, especially when roasted, fried or sauteed. Steer clear of the smelly boiled heads of the past — overcooking them brings out excessive bitter flavors.

One of my favorite Brussels sprouts recipes is to saute shredded sprouts in bacon drippings with a little garlic until crisp. Then I stir in a little chicken broth or heavy cream to moisten them so they cook up tender. Season with salt and serve them warm as a side to roast chicken or pork.

Three out of four of us ordered the raw shredded Brussels sprouts salad at a recent dinner out. We marveled at the crunch from this diminutive member of the cabbage family. It is a great contrast to the tender lettuces of summer with much less bitterness than kale.

The salad that follows takes inspiration from that neighborhood restaurant. Their inventive salad finds tiny roasted tomatoes tucked among the shreds. Even winter tomatoes taste richly tomatoey when oven-roasted. Like little pops of candy, double the recipe and enjoy the tomatoes as a warm side to roast poultry and fish.

The key to a good main-course salad is the combination of crunch, softness, tanginess, sweetness and umami. Freshness from herbs always proves welcome. Add in protein, in the form of cooked animal protein, firm tofu, canned beans, nuts and/or cheese to boost nutrition.

Homemade dressings support the effort — they always taste fresher, and the cook moderates the salt and sweetness levels to suit the salad.

In the cabernet vinaigrette that follows, just a little agave syrup mitigates any bitterness.

Precut shredded Brussels sprouts can sometimes be found in the refrigerated case of large produce sections.

To shred your own, first trim the bottoms of the sprouts. Then use the thinnest blade of a mandolin or the thinnest slicing blade (4mm) of a food processor. If slicing by hand, cut off a thin slice so the little orbs lay flat. Then use a thin-bladed, sharp knife to cut the sprouts crosswise into very thin slices. Fluff the slices in a large bowl to separate them a bit.

If you start with whole Brussels sprouts, peel off several outer leaves from each head and roast them with a little oil and salt until crunchy. Sprinkle over the salad at the last minute.

Serve the salad with warm bread, such as store-bought naan, or thick slices of crusty French bread. Cornbread or corn muffins certainly complement this hearty salad.