I love recipes that multitask, formulas that create dishes that can be used in a variety of ways. This whipped ricotta fills that bill. It can function as an appetizer paired with burst cherry tomatoes and crostini. It also serves as a topping over roasted vegetables, especially asparagus, mushrooms or cauliflower. Or it can be judiciously spooned over scrambled eggs.

The mix comes together quickly. Ricotta and Parmesan whirl in a food processor until the mix resembles whipped cream, with small amounts of milk or cream added to reach the proper consistency. If using as an appetizer or first course, the mix is spread out into an 8-inch round and topped with burst tomatoes; those beauties are tossed with olive oil, salt, pepper and oregano on a rimmed baking sheet and then roasted in a hot oven until they wrinkle and just start to burst. Lemon juice, basil leaves and a drizzle of olive oil come to the party just before serving.

Yield: 4 as an appetizer or starter

INGREDIENTS

1 cup full-fat ricotta, room temperature

1/2 cup tightly packed, finely grated Parmesan cheese

2 to 3 tablespoons milk or cream, if required, see cook’s notes

Burst tomatoes:

1 1/4 pound cherry tomatoes

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano

To finish:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, plus extra if needed

12 to 15 small fresh basil leaves

For serving: Crostini

Cook’s notes: Cookbook author Nagi Maehashi (“Delicious Tonight”) advises using a ricotta bought at a delicatessen (or natural food store), or the type sold in vacuum-packed baskets. I often use a full-fat ricotta sold in a plastic tub at the supermarket, one that Maehashi doesn’t recommend due to its lack of creaminess. She says to use milk. I make up for the lack of creaminess by substituting heavy whipping cream for milk.

DIRECTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Place ricotta and Parmesan in food processor (or a bowl if using a hand-held electric beater). Beat until smooth. The mix should look like whipped cream. If it is too stiff, dilute it with 1 teaspoon milk (or cream) at a time, beating to combine. Repeat until whipped creamlike consistency is attained.

2. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss tomatoes with oil, salt, pepper and oregano. Spread tomatoes into a single layer. Roast in preheated oven until skin starts to wrinkle, about 15 minutes. Remove pan from oven and leave tomatoes on it. Cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.

3. Dollop the whipped ricotta in the center of the serving plate and smear it out into an 8-inch circle, pushing most of it to the outer edge. Scatter tomatoes on top, then pour the pan juices on top. Drizzle with oil and lemon juice, then scatter with basil leaves. Accompany with crostini. Serve immediately.

Source: Adapted from “Delicious Tonight,” by Nagi Maehashi (Countryman Press)

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.