




Colorado’s southwest corner blends fascinating ancient history, rugged desert landscapes, and fun outdoor adventure.
While Mesa Verde National Park is the crown jewel, the region also includes other centuries-old sites and a plethora of outdoor experiences.
As an avid adventurer and ancient history buff, I’ve explored the region extensively.
Here’s how you can immerse yourself in Colorado’s quadrant of the Four Corners, where you can hike by cliff dwellings, bike through desert terrain, and sip wine in a scenic canyon.
Stay in Mancos
Settled by cattle ranchers in the 1870s and founded in 1894, Mancos is a vibrant, tiny town once a stop on the Denver, Rio & Southern Railway. Two great options for your basecamp are:
Mesa Verde Motel: This boutique motel has an ultra-modern twist. On-site M Bar & Coffee serves lattes in the morning and handcrafted cocktails later, which you can enjoy around the fire pit in the evenings.
Willowtail Springs Nature Preserve and Education Center: This peaceful retreat has several uniquely appointed cabins overlooking a serene lake. Artists-in-residence are often there.
Day One
Mesa Verde National Park
Grab a latte and burrito at M Bar & Coffee before heading to Mesa Verde National Park.
Make stops to soak in the views along the 45-minute drive up the mesa. From Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum, hike my favorite trail in the park.
The 2.4-mile Petroglyph Point Trail is a loop showcasing sweeping canyon views and ancient rock carvings, including a large petroglyph panel.
Of the two auto loops, drive the Cliff Palace Loop first. Stop at Cliff Palace overlook for an incredible view of North America’s largest known cliff dwelling, built between 1190 and 1280.
Typically less crowded, Mesa Top Loop has interesting stops to see pithouses, Navajo Canyon, and the Sun Temple.
For an in-depth experience, book a ranger-led tour in advance. If you’re OK with climbing wooden ladders and uneven stone steps, the Cliff Palace Tour takes you close to the ancient community with at least 150 rooms and 21 kivas.
Other ranger-led tours are Balcony House and Square Tower House.
Unwind with dinner at The Boathouse on Grand. The cozy restaurant in the heart of Mancos serves elevated cuisine, highlighting seasonal local ingredients.
Day Two
Mountain biking, monument and wine tasting
Fuel up for the day with a hearty breakfast at Moondog Café and Bakery and grab some goodies from their bakery for later. Pedal your way atop a desert mesa mountain biking at Phil’s World. The singletrack system is known for its flowy terrain and rollercoaster-like dips.
Take a short drive to see Colorado’s least-visited National Park Service site. Surrounded by sprawling farmland, Yucca House National Monument is an unexcavated Ancestral Puebloan site.
You’ll likely have the half-mile trail to yourself as you explore a site virtually untouched for over 800 years. Some masonry is visible of the “Lower House.”
Wander to the “Upper House,” rising 15-20 feet in the West Complex, for a wonderful view of the pastoral surroundings.
Next, take a scenic trip through nearby McElmo Canyon, filled with unmarked rock art and ancient sites.
A green oasis in the rugged landscape, Sutcliffe Vineyards is a well-earned relaxing stop at one of my favorite Colorado wineries. Sip a Viognier or a Cabernet Franc under a vine-covered pergola with a view of Battle Rock.
Finish the day with an early dinner at The Farm Bistro in Cortez with locally sourced produce and meat from Montezuma County for a farm-to-table dining experience. Start with their zucchini fritters, then devour a yak burger, scratch-made chicken pot pie, or seasonal risotto. The lounge features all-Colorado beer, wine, and spirits.
Day Three
Canyons of the Ancients and Hovenweep
With the highest known density of archeological sites in the United States, spending one day in the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument scratches the surface of its 174,000 acres.
There are more than 8,300 recorded sites, from cliff dwellings to sacred springs, and the number is estimated to be as high as 30,000 as archaeological discoveries continue.
For a full day, start with a hike from the Sand Canyon south trailhead in McElmo Canyon.
Keep your eyes peeled for dwellings, as many are not marked.
Head west to Hovenweep National Monument for more archeological wonders on the Colorado-Utah border.
From the visitor center in Utah, hike the Little Ruin Trail. This 1.5-mile loop passes some of the monument’s most striking features: the Square Tower, Twin Towers, and Rim Rock House, which showcase the architectural ingenuity of the Ancestral Puebloans.
For a more secluded experience in Hovenweep, hike to Painted Hand Pueblo in the Cutthroat Castle Group. Precariously perched on a boulder, it gets its name from pictographs of handprints.
Looping back toward Cortez, explore the Holly Unit of Canyons of the Ancients. Hiking to the remote cluster of ruins affords you an off-the-beaten-path experience where you can reflect on the history and solitude of the region.
It’s one of my favorite areas of the national monument. If you’re up for additional late-day hiking, head to Sand Canyon Pueblo, where you can see the
remains of 420 rooms, 100 kivas, and 14 towers.
One of the easiest sites to reach is Lowery Pueblo, the only developed recreation site within the national monument.
Marvel at the architecture and design as you walk in and out of 40 rooms and eight kivas. I like to close my eyes in the Great Kiva, imagining a ceremony. It’s a perfect last stop on this loop exploring ancient sites.
You’ll likely be worn out, so opt for a casual spot for dinner. Loungin’ Lizard, La Casita de Cortez, and Thai Cortez are great options in Cortez.
Back in Mancos, El Río Cantina or Mancos Brewing Company are excellent choices for casual fare.
Bonus adventures
If you’re like me and love this unique corner of Colorado, here are three more must-dos in the region to take your next visit to the next level.
Stay at Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch: This boutique guest ranch in McElmo Canyon offers unique accommodations, from the cozy Cowboy Log Cabin to the intimate Sky Kiva.
Explore Ute Mountain Tribal Park: The only way to visit is on a guided tour with a rugged hike to see cliff dwellings.
Visit Crow Canyon Archaeological Center: Indulge your inner archaeologist while learning about ongoing regional research. You can even volunteer for a hands-on opportunity.
Southwest Colorado’s slice of the Four Corners is truly where ancient history meets modern adventure.
Have fun exploring this extraordinary region.