When I was a teenager, we kids would pull together a batch of pizza dough. That means enough for four pies. With a big family and often a few friends, we needed all we could bake. Of course, the dough was from scratch. Our friends would be amazed, but for us, it was just another Sunday night in the Maurillo kitchen.

One thing I learned was that if the crust isn’t good, then the pizza isn’t good. I don’t care how many toppings you load on top. The crust absolutely must be good!

Ideally, that means crispy and bubbly for thin-crust pizza. Or for a thick crust, it should be crispy on the outside with an interior that’s fluffy and chewy. A bit of a sour taste is also good. If butter or oil is used in the dough, then the crust will have a rich, decadent flavor.

The key to perfection is to bake the pie in a pizza oven. They can reach about 700 F, which is essential for a crispy finish. A regular home oven can’t come close, but it will do in a pinch at the highest setting. A steel or clay baking stone helps a lot.

I used to be disappointed that I could not afford a full-blown brick-lined oven for my yard. But now you can find portable tabletop ovens made of stainless steel that use propane or wood fire.

A decent starter oven is about $350. You’ll often find this type in pizza trucks.

People commonly debate about whether to eat the “bones” — the edges of a pizza. For me, that’s the best part. I mean, if the crust is the defining element of a good pizza, then please don’t waste those precious pieces! It’s like eating a good crusty bread.

What’s the history?

Pizza is a relatively new invention, as foods go. It didn’t exist as we know it until the early 18th century in Naples, when it started as flatbread (focaccia) with simple toppings of cheese, tomatoes and anchovies. Mostly it was a street food for the working class because it was portable, affordable and easy to make. But it didn’t make a splash until Queen Margherita, wife of King Umberto I, dined on a special version. In her honor, the pizzaiolo (pizza chef) invented one with tomato, basil and mozzarella — the colors of the Italian flag. And that’s how we got pizza Margherita.

Since then, all kinds of versions have emerged, some of which are not at all Italian. Ever thought of topping it with banana curry? They do in Sweden. What about pineapple? They do it in Hawaii, and unfortunately, in many other states. Some people like pizza topped with bacon and eggs for breakfast. Even in Italy, they try odd toppings, such as hot dogs.

You don’t believe me? Gary ordered a pizza in the far south of Italy, which was billed as “American pizza.” It arrived with a mound of french fries on top. People still argue whether anchovies should be included. I love them, but not everyone does. Pepperoni is still the American favorite.

Make your own dough!

It’s really not that difficult. Just four basic ingredients — flour, water, salt and yeast. Try to find grade 00 (“double zero”) flour at specialty shops or online. The very fine texture, almost like baby powder, and the lower gluten level makes it ideal for pasta and for a light but crispy pizza crust. It also requires less water to hydrate the dough. Most all-purpose flour is a coarser grind, at grade 2.

For a bit of tang in your crust, include a bit of sourdough starter in the mix. Cold fermentation also helps make a better crust. That means the covered bowl of dough goes into the refrigerator once it just starts to rise. This slows down the process and lets the enzymes break down the starch into sugars, which feed the yeast. It can chill for two hours or for 8-10 hours if necessary.

Also, don’t handle the dough too much! I’ve seen people use rolling pins, which squish out the air bubbles and make a denser crust. Some pizza chains also use metal rollers to flatten the dough before it’s cut into a circle for baking. The result is a crust that’s more like a saltine cracker.

Instead, stretch the dough carefully and evenly. Let it rest for a minute or so between “stretches” so the dough can adapt to its new shape. The goal is to avoid deflating the air bubbles. I’ve included a recipe that you can try.

One pizza I love …

Because I have a photography exhibition there, Gary and I had wine and snacks at Big Basin Vintners Tasting Room last week. We ordered the pinsa Romana, which was really a rectangular pizza just the right size for two.

Oh, wow! I judge a pizza by the crust, and this was terrific! “Is the pizza dough made here?” I asked co-owner Laurie Dahl. She hesitated a moment and then said, “No, we don’t make it. But it does come from Rome.”

I asked, “Like, Rome in Italy?” Yes, that Rome. The wine bar orders the dough, and it arrives ready to be made into an authentic pizza. OK, so that explains it. But the sauce was equally fine. It was tangy without being too acidic, and rich without being overwhelming.

And like authentic Italian pizza, it wasn’t overloaded with toppings. Just enough pine nuts, pesto, mozzarella, roasted peppers and caramelized onion to be flavorful while letting the crust and the sauce play as co-stars.

Big Basin is at 525 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, at the corner of Front Street. Go to bigbasinvineyards.com.

Tip of the week

To avoid spoilage, keep any condiments sterile. That means using individual spoons or knives to dip into each jar. Using the same utensil in different jars can cross-contaminate. Also, clean the rims before replacing the lids. Having a good seal will prevent spoilage.

Recipe of the week

Making pizza dough can sound challenging, but once you get the hang of it, there’s no stopping you.

Homemade Pizza Dough

Makes 1 pie

Ingredients

8 ounces (about 2 cups) double-zero flour, available at Italian shops or online

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon sugar (to feed the yeast)

¾ cups warm water (about 110-115 F)

1 1/4 teaspoons dry yeast (a full envelope is about 2¼ teaspoons, so you won’t use the entire packet)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1. Measure out the flour and place it in a mixing bowl. Measuring flour by weight is more accurate than by volume. For example, a cup of flour that is “fluffed” will weigh less than one that is more densely packed. It makes a huge difference in the result, so always go by weight. Stir in the salt and sugar.

2. Measure out the water in a small bowl and check the temperature. Yeast is fussy, so make sure the water is warm enough, usually about 110-115 F. If it isn’t warm enough out of the tap, heat in the microwave. You can kill the yeast if the water is too hot, and it won’t activate if the water is too cool.

3. Sprinkle the yeast on the surface of the water and give it a little stir. Let it sit about 10 minutes until it fully activates. It will have a creamy surface. Add the oil.

4. Make a well in the flour mixture, and pour in the yeasted water. Use your fingers to stir it well until evenly blended. Using floured hands, shape the dough into a ball. On a floured surface, knead about 50 times until smooth and elastic. To properly knead, push the dough under the heel of your hand, pushing it forward. Fold in half, turn it a quarter-turn, and push it again. Sprinkle a bit of flour on the dough if it’s too sticky, and continue kneading until it’s smooth and elastic. (Or use the dough hook on a stand mixer.)

5. Oil a bowl, place the dough into it, turn it once to coat with the oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a clean tea towel. Let it sit in a warm place until doubled in size, about two hours.

6. Punch down the dough to deflate it a bit. Place it on a pizza pan and slowly stretch the dough to fit. Try not to handle it too much. Cover with a cloth and let it rise again for about 30 minutes.

7. Meanwhile, heat the oven to its highest temperature (500 F for most) or start up your pizza oven until it reaches about 700 F. When the dough has risen again, put toppings on the pizza and place it into the oven until the bottom is golden and crispy and the toppings are cooked.