If John Burroughs ever invites you to his home for a tri-tip barbecue, take my advice. Say yes! Burroughs is a master of the grill. In fact, I’ve counted four of them in his yard. But I’ll bet he has more hidden somewhere.

I’ve had tri-tip many times, but Burroughs’ is by far the best. It turns out tender, flavorful, juicy and totally addictive. So, arrive hungry.

But first, a bit about this cut of beef. Tri-tip got its name because it’s a triangular cut from the bottom sirloin. It’s boneless, with a nice amount of marbling, which makes it good and tender — but only if it’s cooked and sliced properly. (We all have had some pretty chewy pieces!) You can cook it whole like a roast beef, or cut it against the grain into boneless steaks.

Tri-tip’s popularity started in Santa Maria and became a classic California barbecue cut. In some parts of the country, it’s known as “California cut,” “Newport steak” or “Santa Maria steak.” It’s less expensive than ribeye, so it’s ideal when you’re cooking for several people. Historically, it was ground into hamburger before people discovered its value as a roast or a steak.

Burroughs buys his tri-tips at Costco and looks for “choice” cuts rather than “prime.” They’re less costly, but they still cook up perfectly. They’re especially good for grilling, roasting or even smoking. Medium-rare is the best way to prepare it. Cut against the grain to ensure tenderness.

Traditionally, tri-tip is cooked over red oak coals, which bring out its beefy flavor. But even if you don’t find red oak, any other charcoal, or even a smoker, will deliver great results. For a smoky flavor with a gas grill, soak some wood chips in water and place them in a smoker box. Or wrap them in foil, poke holes in it and place over the burners.

Cutting tri-tip is critical

Because of its triangular or V shape, tri-tip grain goes in two directions. If you don’t slice it properly, it will be tough. Guaranteed! So, let the cooked tri-tip rest for 5-10 minutes so the muscle can relax and reabsorb the juice.

Then starting at one end of the V shape, cut crosswise into thin slices (about a half-inch) until you reach the middle of the V. Then do the same with the other half, starting at the end and working toward the middle again. This ensures that you’ll always be cutting across the grain.

Notice that one end of the tri-tip will be larger and thicker than the other. This means that the smaller end will cook faster than the larger end, allowing you to serve both rare and medium cuts. So, you can please everyone!

What about side dishes?

Plenty of vegetable sides can go well with tri-tip. Soak bamboo skewers in water for about 15 minutes. Then thread them with chunks of zucchini, cauliflower, white mushrooms and red onion. Brush with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and grill until tender.

You can also grill bell pepper strips, quartered red or white onions, corn on the cob, zucchini sliced lengthwise, halved Brussels sprouts, whole mushrooms or many other firm or semi-firm vegetables. Just brush with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and place on the grill. If they may fall through the grates, cook them in a grill pan made for this purpose.Garlic bread is a natural. Slice a loaf of French or sourdough bread crosswise. Melt butter and mix with minced garlic or garlic powder. Drizzle the cut sides with the butter, and toast on the grill, buttered side down. Slice into individual servings.

Charred romaine lettuce also has a unique flavor. Cut a romaine head vertically into quarters, and place cut side down on the grill until it begins to char. Serve drizzled with olive oil.

It’s traditional to serve tri-tip with pinto beans and corn tortillas quickly warmed on the grill. In fact, many people serve tri-tip slices on the tortillas with fresh salsa and sour cream.

Now, go and have some fun with it. Burroughs’s recipe is included here.

EBT match is increased

Here’s good news if you or someone you know relies on EBT or CalFresh (formerly known as food stamps) for grocery shopping. Farmers markets in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties are getting a boost.

At the Monterey County markets, Everyone’s Harvest is increasing its assistance. When you spend $30 on fresh produce using CalFresh, you will receive an additional $45 to spend on produce.

In Santa Cruz County, the Market Match program has received a grant from Kaiser Permanente. The Downtown Santa Cruz Farmers Market will double the first $20, meaning shoppers can buy $40 in produce. All other markets in the county will double $15 into $30.

The benefits can be used once for each farmers market day. This promotes healthy eating and helps small farms. Many of these farms pay higher than average industry wages, offer employee benefits and protect the land with costly organic and conservation practices. Increased business is a lifeline for these growers who compete in a highly industrialized and globalized food system.

Tip of the week

If you don’t have a knife sharpener, you should. I sharpen mine after every couple of uses because sharp knives prevent accidents. They slice easily through tomatoes, apples and other foods, so they don’t slip and cut your hands or fingers.

Recipe of the week

Burroughs provided his go-to recipe for making the perfect tri-tip. The instructions are specific to a Traeger grill, where he sourced the recipe. But it is easily adapted to other grill brands.

John Burroughs’ Smoked Tri-Tip

Makes 6-10 servings

Ingredients

3-5 pound tri-tip

1/8 cup (2 tablespoons) black pepper

1/8 cup (2 tablespoons) Kosher salt

Pellets or charcoal for the grill or smoker

Directions

1. Start the grill fire with the lid open until the fire is established, about 4-5 minutes. (If using a Traeger, set the control to Smoke.) Then set the temperature to 225 F, close the lid and heat for 10-15 minutes.

2. Using a sharp knife, trim any excess fat off the tri-tip. Discard.

3. Combine the pepper and salt. Heavily season all sides of the meat with the mixture.

4. Place the tri-tip directly on the grill grate. Cover and cook until it reaches an internal temperature of 135 F. This should take about 1-1½ hours, depending on the size of the tri-tip.

5. When the beef reaches the appropriate temperature, remove it from the grill, wrap it in foil and set it aside.

6. Turn up the heat to high (or 500 F, if you have a temperature control), and close the lid for 10 minutes. When the grill is hot, unwrap the tri-tip and place it on the grill. Sear each side for 4 minutes. Then remove from the grill and let the meat rest for 10-15 minutes to absorb the juice. When ready, slice against the grain on each side of the tri-tip’s V shape, making half-inch slices until you reach the mid-point of the V.

7. Spread about a tablespoon of the Thousand Island sauce on the toasted sides of each bun. Add the beef patties, and top with pastrami, pickle slices, tomato and lettuce. Finish with the top bun, and serve with chips and additional sauce on the side.

8. Serve with grilled vegetables, corn on the cob or your favorite accompaniments.