It has been quite an awards season for chef Geoff Davis and Burdell, the fine-dining, soul-food hot spot that opened in Oakland last fall. The restaurant was just named Food & Wine’s Restaurant of the Year.

Burdell “reimagines soul food through a modern lens,” Food & Wine restaurant editor Raphael Brion writes in the story. “Stepping into Burdell feels like stepping back in time, as though you’ve been welcomed to a cheerful Sunday Supper … Chef-owner Geoff Davis cooks soul food in a bright and modern way, catapulting it into the future.”

It’s the newest entry in what has become a steady stream of accolades. In November, Burdell was named one of Esquire’s top restaurants in the U.S. It won kudos from Michelin as a “new discovery” in March — and in April, Davis was a James Beard finalist for “Best Chef: California.” So the restaurant’s omission in last month’s Michelin star announcement surprised Bay Area diners and critics, who have been wowed by Davis’ creations.

“We’re not really focused on what we didn’t get,” Davis says. “We got mentioned in the Michelin guide which is a win for us.”

Davis says Food &Wine began interviewing him in January. The magazine’s representatives dined at Burdell anonymously a couple times, then informed Davis about the award in April.

“It’s awesome and really humbling to be recognized on this level, for not only myself, but the team, for Oakland and soul food,” he says. “We’re a small restaurant that doesn’t have super wealthy investors. It’s supported by Oaklanders and a little loan. We achieved what we achieved by being scrappy and resourceful. It’s just the most amazing thing.”

Inspired by his grandmother, Burdell Demby, Davis opened Burdell to warm reviews last year with a philosophy “centered on nostalgia, family recipes and sourcing,” the restaurant website explains, “and on the forgotten impact of Black farming, ranching, fishing, foraging, and culture on American cuisine and hospitality.”

A veteran of Michelin-starred Cyrus and Aqua, Davis began Burdell as a series of pop-ups, before opening the brick-and-mortar in Oakland’s Temescal district last September.

At Burdell, he created a menu that includes fresh takes on traditional soul food items, like the chicken and waffles, remade as chicken-liver mousse with crispy skin and shallots ($19), while also offering such classics as collard greens made with smoked ham hock, cider vinegar and berbere spice ($14).

Davis, who grew up in Modesto, also offers “family dinner,” a family-style, four-course meal ($79) centered around pork chops for the table to share.

The vibe at Burdell is old school, with avocado-green and mustard-yellow tones highlighting the 1970s decorations and old family photos. Dishes are served on vintage Pyrex plates, and servers wear aprons with floral patterns. The menu language is simple, designed to feel comforting and easy.

“Given his fine-dining experience, Davis easily could have opened a fancy French bistro or a high-end Italy-meets-California concept and watched the accolades come in,” Brion writes. “But he felt compelled to do something true to himself.”

Davis celebrated the restaurant’s anniversary last week with a fish fry. He’s also started a new tradition he calls the “grandma series,” one day a month when he invites another chef into his restaurant to cook their favorite meals inspired by their grandmothers. Folks can discover “grandma series” events on Instagram @burdell_oak.

“We’re going to continue to keep expanding and improving,” Davis says. “Our menu is really driven by what we get at the farmers market. The menu changes often. Two or three dishes change every week depending what we get our hands on.”

Any tips for people shopping at a farmer’s market? “Don’t go to the market with a plan on what you want to get,” Davis said. “Really talk to the farmer about what they’re excited about. Or if something looks good, give it a whirl, even if you have to Google how to cook it.”

Details >> Open 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. for Sunday brunch and 5-8 p.m. for Sunday dinner at 4640 Telegraph Ave., Oakland; burdelloakland.com. Read more in the October 2024 issue of Food & Wine magazine and at www.food andwine.com.