One of the most exciting and highly anticipated restaurants to hit downtown Berkeley in ages hails from celebrated world champion pizzaiola Laura Meyer. Pizzeria da Laura, which opened March 23, offers four styles of pizza plus house-made pastas, Italian style wines and low alcohol by volume cocktails.

Yup, it’s a pizza place. And no, it’s not fancy. But by now, we know that pandemic-proof artisanal pizzerias — with high-quality ingredients and a geeky devotion to dough fermentation — could probably outlive an apocalypse in the Bay Area. And this one is particularly special.

Tucked into the art deco building formerly housing Passione Emporio on Shattuck Square, the two-story pizzeria is the long-awaited debut from one of Northern California’s few female pizza chefs and restaurateurs. Meyer spent 17 years honing her craft at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco, eventually running owner Tony Gemignani’s International Pizza School, traveling the competitive pizza circuit and serving as head chef at Capo’s before going out on her own — first with her Focaccia da Laura pop-up and now a brick-and-mortar spot that offers several pizza styles under one roof.

Here’s what we found on our visit.

VIBE >> Casual and fun, with seating for about 60 downstairs. Midcentury-style chandeliers dangle from the high ceilings, and a central bar is flanked by an open kitchen and takeout area — it offers slices and whole pies — and a staircase. Upstairs, you’ll find two- and four-top tables offering seating for another 30 or so, plus a TV for Cal games, of course.

FOOD >> Pan-style pizza is the focus here. Meyer showcases her love of dough fermentation via four styles of pie: New York, Sicilian, Detroit and cracker-thin “Grandma.” Choose the style and one of 10 topping combinations or opt for a build-your-own.

The New York-style Chi Town ($25/$28) was tops because the thin crust allowed the sausage pie’s zingy house-made giardiniera to shine. The Ray J (mozzarella, tomato, pepperoni, burrata, fermented honey, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano) is a 10-by-14-inch Detroit, with a crust that has the heft to hold fresh, gooey cheese and honey.

Our favorite >> The 12-by-18-inch Sicilian because it’s juuuust right. Get it in the La Regina ($35), the pie that won Meyer the World Pizza Championship in Italy in 2013. Topped with tomato, mozzarella, prosciutto, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano and a flurry of nutty arugula, the flavors are heavenly, and the crust is reminiscent of Meyer’s pillow-perfect focaccia.

Three salads ($13-$15), including a chopped salad with white beans and Finocchiona salame, house-made pastas ($15-$25) and appetizers ($9-$22) round out the menu. Don’t miss the epic charcuterie board and golf ball-sized arancini filled with “Dad’s ragu.”

DRINKS >> Master sommelier Morgan Harris curated the by-the-glass wine list ($12-$17), which features Italian varieties from California as well as wines from across Italy. Cocktail consultant Christopher Presutti, most recently the bar director at Saison, rounds out the beverage offerings with a menu of low-proof cocktails ($14 each) starring Italian aperitifs and amaros, like Something’s Gotta Give (house vermouth blend, bitters, orange oil). Beer is coming soon.

DETAILS >> Pizzeria da Laura is open from 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday to start, with lunch service and daily hours coming soon. 2049 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley; www. pizzeriadalaura.com