(Editor’s note: This is part of The Know’s series, Staff Favorites. Each week, we offer our opinions on the best that Colorado has to offer for dining, shopping, entertainment, outdoor activities and more. We’ll also let you in on some hidden gems.)

To walk into Baker Market is to take a step back in time.

Nestled in the heart of Denver’s Baker neighborhood, the brick-and-mortar bodega is a call-back to a different era when someone could take their dog for a stroll and pick up a sandwich and some produce in one fell swoop.

When owner Berlinda Olivas first bought what was then known as Baker Neighborhood Market in 2000, there were multiple bodegas nearby. Hers is the only one still operating — in part because she bought the business back from a family friend after some lean years during the pandemic. Had Olivas sold the building, its unique zoning would have disappeared.

“I didn’t want to lose that history,” the 66-year-old lifetime Baker resident said.

That history dates back to the late 1880s, when Baker Market hosted parishioners from nearby St. Joseph’s Catholic Parish. And it is on display throughout.

The exposed brick interior wall matches the tone of the 100-year-old homes that line the neighborhood’s streets. A mural on the east side of the building highlights a community garden that abuts the property. And an old cash register Olivas inherited sits in one corner of a charming back porch open to customers.

It’s the kind of place where you might see the postman pop in and freshen up his coffee, or a mother on a walk with her toddler make a pitstop for a chilled sparkling water. Not only are pets welcome, they are encouraged — often with a little treat.

Of course, things have changed in the decades since Olivas bought the business, even if the prices remain relatively old school.

For a time, the business was known as Java ’n Scoops, but it transitioned to Baker Market and has expanded its menu over the years. Breakfast and lunchtime options are served all day, with fresh produce, groceries and locally sourced coffee, teas and breads also available. The burritos and tacos — breakfast or lunch — are delicious, but don’t sleep on the croissant breakfast sandwiches. Other sandwich selections include classics like the BLT, grilled cheese for the kiddos, and less widely available fare like the “Cubano” and “Leonardo de Veggie.”

All of those items are made to order. You can even watch them sizzle on a flat-top griddle at the back of the deli.

Still, it’s the old-school charm of Baker Market that makes it such a treasured gem. And as long as Olivas is still around, that’s not going anywhere.

Baker Market is at 713 W. 4th Ave. in Denver. Open 6:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, and 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. facebook.com/bakermarketdenver

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