Curry just might be one of the most misunderstood culinary terms.

Often thought of as a flavor, it’s actually a sauce or stew made with warming spices or a paste-like mash of fresh ingredients such as galangal, lemongrass, ginger and chiles to add heat.

In India, there are hundreds of types of curries based on the cultural and religious preferences of the people residing in a specific region — as well as the availability of the various ingredients.

In this easy recipe from Chetna Makan’s “Classic Indian Recipes: 75 Signature Dishes,” the flavors are more delicate than the heavily spiced chicken curries you find on a typical Indian restaurant menu. It’s just fresh ginger, garlic, turmeric, green chiles and a whisper of cinnamon.

“The light spicing works beautifully with the coconut milk,” writes Makan, who has written eight cookbooks on Indian cuisine.

Just as using whole ingredients is always better than a store-bought powder, chicken cooked on the bone is always more flavorful than boneless. I prefer dark meat, so I used chicken thigh. But you could do a mix of white and dark.

If you can’t find curry leaves, lemon balm (a member of the mint family) or lemon zest can be substituted. I substituted black sesame seeds for the nigella seeds in the naan recipe, but you also could use poppy, celery, cumin or fennel seeds.

Coconut Chicken Curry with Quick Naan

Serves 4. Source: “Classic Indian Recipes: 75 Signature Recipes “ by Chetna Makan (Hamlyn)

Ingredients

For chicken:

1 1/2 tablespoons sunflower oil, or other neutral oil

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

10 curry leaves

2 onions, thinly sliced

2 green chilies, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1/2 -inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

8 skinless chicken pieces on the bone

14-ounce can coconut milk

For naan:

7 3/4 ounces self-rising flour, plus more for mixing

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon chili flakes

1/2 teaspoon nigella seeds

7 ounces plain yogurt

Salted butter or ghee, to serve

Directions

1. Prepare chicken: Heat oil in saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir in the mustard seeds and cook 1-2 minutes, until they sizzle.

2. Mix in the curry leaves and, after 1 minute, add onions and green chiles. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 5-6 minutes, until the onions have softened.

3. Stir in garlic and ginger and cook for another 2 minutes. Add salt and spices to the saucepan and mix well. Cook for 1 minute, stir in the chicken, increase the heat to high and cook for 5 minutes, until the chicken is sealed.

4. Stir in coconut milk, then cover with a lid, reduce heat to low and cook for 35-40 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through.

5. While chicken is cooking, prepare naan. Mix flour, salt, chili flakes and nigella seeds in a mixing bowl with yogurt and mix well. The dough will be slightly sticky at first, but continue to knead for 2-3 minutes until it becomes a little smoother.

6. Leave the dough in the bowl, cover with a clean towel and let it rest for 5 minutes.

7. Heat a frying pan or griddle pan over medium heat. Divide dough into 4 equal portions. Dust work surface with a little flour, then roll out each dough portion into a 5- to 6-inch circle.

8. Cook in hot pan for 1 minute on each side until golden, then brush with butter or ghee. Keep warm until chicken is finished. When chicken is done, serve immediately with cooked rice or naan.