LOS ANGELES — Loyal customers of Asian supermarkets and other grocery stores that specialize in selling imported food heaved a collective sigh of dismay when President Donald Trump announced extra-high U.S. tariffs on goods from dozens of countries.

What would happen to prices at 99 Ranch Market and H Mart?, wondered Asian Americans and immigrants who shop at the two American chains for preferred brands like Japan’s Kewpie mayonnaise and China’s Pearl River light soy sauce.

“We’re all going to be crying in H Mart,” a TikTok user commiserated, referencing the title of a bestselling memoir by Korean American musician Michelle Zauner as other posters shared videos of their “pre-tariff hauls” from Asian supermarkets.

The steeper tariff rates Trump set for imports from nations he accused of unfair trade practices took effect first thing Wednesday along with a 10% baseline tax on products from the rest of the world. Less than 14 hours later, the president paused the individually set tariffs for every country except China for 90 days.

Several countries in Asia had some of the largest “reciprocal” levies, including South Korea (25%), Vietnam (47%) and Cambodia (49%). After China approved counter-tariffs and said it would fight a U.S. trade war “to the end,” Trump raised the rate on Chinese goods to 104% and then to 145%.

Shopping for a taste of home

At a 99 Ranch Market less than a mile from the UCLA campus, one of the California-based chain’s 58 stores, regular shopper Artis Chitchamnueng said he won’t be able to go anywhere else to find the foods he likes if prices skyrocket.

“I think (Trump’s) just like playing a lot of like mind games of just trying to like take control of the market and stuff like that,” Chitchamnueng, a part-time worker and entrepreneur, said. Many customers have said on social media they don’t know if they will be able to continue doing their routine grocery shopping at 99 Ranch Market.

The stores stocking a wide range of noodles, dried vegetables, herbs and skin care products from China, Japan, South Korea, Thailand and Vietnam can be a source of comfort for those craving the tastes of home.

American tastes grow beyond the ‘ethnic food’ aisle

Shopping for culturally specific foods, drinks and condiments in the U.S. has come a long way from the once-meager offerings found in the “ethnic food” aisles of American supermarkets. International supermarkets and small grocery stores across the country generated $55.8 billion in revenue last year, according to market research firm IBISWorld.

The sector has recorded an annual growth rate of roughly 3% since 2019, and an IBISWorld forecast predicted revenue for grocery stores with international brands would go up to over $64 billion by 2029.

South Asian grocery stores prepare for higher costs

Independent shops that are integral to smaller Asian American communities also braced for a hit. The owner of Not Just Spices, a tiny South Asian grocery in Providence, Rhode Island, said he was concerned about rising costs for staple products such as basmati rice from India and Pakistan, or the smaller-grained Kalijira rice from his native Bangladesh.

Mohammed Islam, who has run Not Just Spices since 1998, trusts his customers won’t blame him if the tariffs affect supplies, and he has to raise prices.

“People don’t complain because it’s already in the news,” Islam said. “It’s not like I’m the one who is raising the price.”

A loyal customer base

Customers at Hispanic supermarkets also may be shopping more carefully. Trump has repeatedly threatened to impose a 25% tariff on most imports from Mexico.

In Phoenix, roommates Andrew Colvin and Mario Aviles typically patronize Los Altos Ranch Market, where they say the bulk of the produce and snacks they buy are from Mexico. The sprawling supermarket, which includes a deli and a bakery, is one of the 115 stores the Heritage Grocers Group operates in six states.

“We expect pretty much everything to go up,” said Colvin, who was stocking up on Parrot canned coconut water, his favorite drink, in case the price goes up. “I probably eat 14 avocados a week. There’ll be a lot less of that.”