Kopi Bar and Bakery, Berkeley

Tears fell among foodies and coffee lovers last summer when Kopi Bar and its sister restaurant shuttered in Walnut Creek. But that city’s loss is another’s gain, as Kopi Bar returned in a delicious way at the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive. (Is it a good thing when Alice Waters drops by to eat at your new cafe, as verified on Facebook?)

Owner Nora Haron tapped her Singaporean and Indonesian, particularly Nusantaran, roots to create the museum cafe’s small but intriguing menu. She’s in charge of the kitchen R&D, whipping up lunch dishes like gado-gado salad and soto ayam, turmeric-coriander chicken soup with sous-vide egg. Pastries like passion-fruit malasadas and chocolate-babka pistachio swirls benefit from her sourdough starter, still alive and bubbling after a decade-plus of traveling. “It’s a living piece of continuity and care, and it shows up in the flavor and character of what we serve,” Haron says.

Oak-roasted beans for the coffee and espresso drinks come from Oakland’s Mr. Espresso. They’re brewed into drip coffee, Americanos and lattes. But why order those when you could get a Coconut Cappuccino or a Kopi Avocado, made with the guacamole ovoid?

“Avocado coffee is absolutely part of Indonesian coffee culture, especially in places like Java and Bali,” Haron explains. “It’s traditionally made with really strong, dark coffee and ripe avocado, usually with a little sweetness. The avocado isn’t there to be trendy — it’s about texture and balance. It brings this natural creaminess that softens the bitterness of the coffee, so it becomes something lush, almost dessert-like, without needing dairy.”

The cup: The Kopi Avocado is a refined version of the overseas drink, delivering a comforting and indulgent mouthfeel while seeming modern enough to match the museum’s art ($7). There’s a golden latte and a moringa latte, made with nutrient-rich tree leaves ($6.50). Tea-based drinks rely on orange flower or fresh ginger, and “Bridgerton” fans take note: The cafe will hold its High Tea inspired by the show this April, with the “finest attire” encouraged.

The bite: A rotating menu features savory meals like beef rendang chili with microgreens ($22), vegan mushroom congee with caramelized-soy sambal ($16) and nasi goreng, an Indonesian fried rice with egg and pickles ($18). On the sweeter side, Haron’s pastries are varied and mouthwatering enough to make choosing hard: makrut-lime shortbread ($4.50), black-sesame chiffon cake ($5.50) or perhaps a pandan-sourdough brioche with kaya butter and coconut-sugar brulee ($6)?

Details: Open 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays at 2155 Center St., Berkeley (second floor of BAMPFA); no museum admission required to visit the cafe, thekopibar.com