Anela Malik’s co-author, Renae Wilson, developed recipes in the book using historical records, oral histories and historic cookbooks. The oyster industry was dominated by Black oystermen in the 18th and 19th centuries in New Orleans; first as a way for enslavers to profit from enslaved peoples’ oyster sales, and after emancipation, as a means to pursue employment opportunities, Malik writes.

Additionally, Thomas Downing, a freeborn son of enslaved parents, elevated the oyster to fine dining fare at his oyster house, which also served as a stop on the Underground Railroad.

Yield: Makes 8 croquettes

INGREDIENTS

1 medium potato, peeled

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for salting potato

1 small onion, quartered

1 cup finely ground cornmeal, divided

1 (13.5-ounce) can salmon, bones removed

2 (3.7-ounce) cans oysters, drained

1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons chopped parsley, leaves and stems

1 teaspoon dried dill or 2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill

3/4 teaspoon mustard powder

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne (optional)

2 cups vegetable oil for frying

Rémoulade (for dipping)

DIRECTIONS

Grate potato with a box grater onto a paper towel-lined plate. Lightly salt potato and let stand for 30minutes. Place onion in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped and juicy. Add ? cup of cornmeal, grated potato, salmon, oysters, celery, parsley, dill, mustard powder, pepper, cayenne (if using), and ½ teaspoon salt. Pulse until mixture is coarsely ground. Form seafood mixture into 8croquettes (about 3tablespoons each). Place remaining 2/3 cup cornmeal on a plate.

Working in batches, coat croquettes with cornmeal, turning and pressing to adhere. Transfer to a plate and let rest at room temperature for 20minutes. Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until oil registers 375degrees on a deep-fry thermometer. Working in 2 batches, fry croquettes until golden, 3to 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to a paper towel—lined plate to drain. Serve with rémoulade.

— Recipe by Renae Wilson; reprinted with permission from “American Soul: The Black History of Food in the United States” by Anela Malik and Renae Wilson (National Geographic, $40)