Star Leaf Asian Cuisine is a 21st-century version of the legendary Trader Vic’s. Which is to say it’s madcap, over-the-top and extreme from every angle, with a cult following, outlandish cocktails — and some very good food, including a horde of dishes that taste like nothing that’s tingled your senses in the past.

I love the place. But it also left me with a food hangover that lasted for days. I swear, there were dishes I kept thinking about long after I’d left the restaurant — and wanting more of. As exciting as the current tsunami of new restaurants in Pasadena may be — and there are many worth considering — Star Leaf is in a class by itself. This is an exercise in welcome madness.

According to the website, there are “just over 43 locations” situated all over the world, though mostly in Asia. Pasadena’s Star Leaf is the first in the United States — and properly honored we should be.

It occupies the space that used to be home to Roy’s; in effect, one vision of Asian cuisine replaced by another. And though Roy’s had lots of flash and filigree, it was plain Jane compared with Star Leaf — which is a visual smorgasbord of jungle plants, ponds, hanging lamps, wall art, polished wood and both drinks and plates decorated with exotic blossoms.

There are dishes so elegantly arranged, it feels sacrilegious to disrupt them. But disrupt we must. Not just the cocktails, with names like Hello from Hanoi, Bali Mary and B-52. But also Global Inspired Specialty Blends/Brews of iced Morocco black leaf, royal iced Thai milk tea and iced Lazy Beach Bum. Drinks like Stingers are served as shots. Rather than a Pimm’s Cup, there’s a Nimm’s Cup — a non-alcoholic mix of ginger beer and carrot ginger juice. The wines are divided into headings like Million Bubbles, Welcoming Whites and Charming Reds.

“Charming”? The use of adjectives here can truly go madcap, with the food described as “heartfelt” and “enchanting” with “charm.” (Clearly not written by AI, but by someone with a very well-thumbed thesaurus!) There’s more: Star Leaf is a “breathtaking world” with a “dedicated following.” The founder, restaurateur Ruth Lin, is a “visionary.” Her chefs are an “expert team.” Calling the food “mouthwatering” pales by comparison.

But orchidaceous as the verbiage may be, the food is a match — extraordinary, but also eminently edible. This is serious food, though not always with serious names.

The Siam Beach Club Egg Rolls sound like something found in the frozen food case at Trader Joe’s. But it’s actually a wonderfully crunchy plate of six rolls packed with shrimp, water chestnuts and lemongrass, with a terrific chili mango dip. Mamasan’s Shrimp Cake Skewers come with charred pineapple. The Tropical Mango Fish is worth getting for the accompanying Asian rainbow slaw and toasted wild rice. Wild rice should be served toasted more often. It kills.

The main courses are divided into entrées and “grill” — which is a puzzlement, since the “grill” dishes are all entrées as well. But then, it’s under the entrée heading that you’ll find the trio of curries that are one of the hallmarks of Star Leaf.

These are not so much Indian curries, as they are Southeast Asian. The first of them, marked with a star as a “signature dish” (signature dishes make up about half the menu), is the Thai Royal Curry, made with sambal rempah (a spicy paste that gives the curry its zetz), coconut cream, duck eggs, mashed potato and a choice of shrimp, crispy soft-shell crab or lobster tail.

There’s also the Malay Captain’s Curry (made with “10 secret spices” and peanut butter). And the Rainforest Vegetable Curry — one of a few meatless dishes on the menu.

This is not a vegetarian restaurant, though those avoiding animal protein can do well with Night Market Shichimi Tofu, the Saigon Summer Rice Paper Rolls, and the Baby Brinjal on Eggplant Steak, served with a crispy wild rice cilantro salad. Otherwise, there are scallops and shrimp in the Royal Crown Fried Rice. Seafood and pork floss in the Pineapple Fried Rice. Pork sausage in the steamed Longanisa Mussels. And something called Madame Noi’s Pork Collar.

Star Leaf is an occasion, and a very special one at that. It would probably work best if you assembled a table full of heavy forks, happy to eat everything and anything on the menu. And to have the Slow Drip Vietnam Coffee Flan for dessert.

The Pink Mekong — made with coconut cream, red dragon fruit, lotus seeds, red beans and peach gum — is probably good, too. It serves four. And does a fine job cooling you off after an evening of, to quote the menu, “Exploring the essence of Asia’s culinary charm, savoring enchanting moments, beyond what meets the eye.” Not quite Shakespeare. But still…

Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.