Vinaigrette offers a critical bling of acidity to dishes. Sometimes it whispers; sometimes it shouts. It’s crucial in creating the needed flavor elements in everything from salads to sandwiches. The proportion of tart (most often vinegar) to oil is debatable. The classic dressing formula is 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar. But some take it up a notch in acidity, preferring a 2-to-1 ratio, or for sour-driven enthusiasts, an even 1-to-1 is key.

My mother’s blue cheese vinaigrette was the first recipe I prepared. At 4 or 5, I learned to measure, taste and make needed adjustments, adding more oil or vinegar or garlic salt. Pleasing the palates of my family fueled my

desire to learn more.

Of course, vinaigrettes are great on salads, but they can also be spooned over grilled fish or chicken. And cooked pasta, grains, vegetables and beans are also candidates. Sandwiches made with sturdy rolls or baguettes benefit from a good slather of dressing on the cut-side surface.

Here are some formulas for preparing vinaigrettes that sing. Some are classic; others are irresistible adaptations. One is my mother’s well-loved interpretation with blue cheese.

Classic French vinaigrette

This adds palate pizazz to myriad dishes. Additional ingredients to the recipe can change its personality. For more zing, include a pinch of dried thyme or dill, or augment with finely chopped fresh herbs such as tarragon or basil. For a meaty meal, add some charcuterie to the mix, placing thinly sliced prosciutto and salami around a mixed green salad dressed with this vinaigrette.

Yield: 1/4 cup

INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon apple cider or sherry vinegar

1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

DIRECTIONS

1. Place vinegar, mustard salt and pepper in a medium-small bowl. Whisk to combine and dissolve salt. Add oil in a thin steam, whisking constantly. Taste and adjust as needed.

Ina’s Honey-Spiked Vinaigrette

My son-in-law says this is the best vinaigrette on the planet. He appreciates the balance of Ina Garten’s creamy dressing, praising the subtle sweetness that a smidgen of honey brings to the mix. I like to keep a small jar in my fridge. I spoon it on leftover cooked vegetables and grains (usually farro) for an easy lunch. If it solidifies in the refrigerator, I run some hot water over the jar to melt the hardened oil.

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon minced shallot

About 5 cups mesclun mix (or lettuce of your choice)

DIRECTIONS

1. In a medium-small bowl, combine all ingredients except the lettuce. Whisk to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

2. Toss lettuce with enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the leaves.

Source: foodnetwork.com

Harriett’s Blue Cheese Vinaigrette

Here’s my mother’s vinaigrette augmented with blue cheese. I love the technique of smooshing part of the cheese into the oil, using a fork to press it against the side of the bowl or measuring cup. The result is a dressing that looks and tastes like blue cheese. I like to add seeded kumquat slices to the salad for an extra sweet-sour accent.

Yield: About 2 cups

INGREDIENTS

1 cup safflower oil or extra-virgin olive oil

4 ounces crumbled blue cheese, divided use

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1 teaspoon garlic salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Cook’s notes: If desired, just before serving, remove the amount of dressing you think you’ll be using and add some minced fresh tarragon or basil. If you add the herbs to the entire mixture and then store it in the refrigerator, the herbs will lose their fresh taste. The dressing can be stored for two weeks in the refrigerator, well-sealed in a nonreactive container.

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine oil and blue cheese in small bowl or measuring cup with handle. Using the tines of a fork, mash about 1/2 of the blue cheese into the oil. Stir in the remaining cheese, vinegar, garlic salt and ground black pepper.

2. Before use, stir the dressing. Add just enough to lightly coat the lettuce leaves.

Source: Harriett Young

Hot bacon dressing

For a change of pace, here’s a dressing that doesn’t fit into the standard vinaigrette category. Hot bacon dressing is, well, served hot, and rather than oil it incorporates bacon grease. Spoon over baked potatoes, steamed cauliflower or grilled fish. Or for a wilted spinach salad, toss with raw baby spinach.

Yield: about 3/4 cup

INGREDIENTS

1/2 pound sliced bacon (about 8 slices)

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup cider vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For spinach salad: 6 cups baby spinach

DIRECTIONS

1. Cook bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp. Off heat, using a slotted spoon or fork, transfer bacon to drain on paper towels. Remove all but 2 tablespoons of bacon grease from skillet.

2. Add water and cider vinegar. Simmer on medium-high heat, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add salt and pepper to taste. Crumble bacon and add just before serving.

3. If making a spinach salad, toss hot dressing with spinach. Transfer to plates and if desired, top with small pieces of chilled goat cheese and toasted pecans.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.