Raise your hand if you love cheese. Wow! I see a lot of you out there. Some are waving enthusiastically. Yes, me too. I’ve loved cheese ever since my mother grated fresh Parmesan on my pasta when I was just a little thing. We never used that stuff in a green can. It always came in a wedge cut from a wheel at the Italian market up the street.
You probably have the same kinds of memories — of grilled cheese sandwiches, of Swiss cheese slices on crackers or maybe a fondue of gruyere and white wine. Maybe it was queso fresco with warm tortillas, or paneer in a savory sauce. If you find yourself sticking to the same types, maybe it’s time to branch out.
Cheese specialties are broad
Almost every world region has its signature cheese. For example, Greece is known for its feta, a brined curd cheese typically made from sheep’s milk. I love adding it to salads. France has a following for its camembert, a soft and creamy cheese with a powdery rind. It has an earthy flavor that improves with age, so look for a ripe version.
Here in the U.S., cheddar is the most popular American cheese. With roots in Great Britain, it’s known for its various degrees of sharpness. Wisconsin is a big producer. In Brazil, they favor queijo minas, a mild-flavored soft cheese often served fresh or used to make cheese bread.
India is known for paneer, a fresh cheese that holds its shape when heated. That’s why it holds up well in dishes like spinach with cheese or in saucy creations. Like in the U.S., cheddar is quite popular in Australia — again, probably because of its British influence. It’s the basis for Tasmanian cheddar, which is highly regarded.
In Italy, Parmigiano and Reggiano cheeses are quite similar. These are hard, low-moisture cheeses with a sharp flavor and a grainy texture. They are aged as wheels sometimes encased in wax. Germany has its Allgäu Emmental or Bavarian Swiss, a semi-hard cheese with a buttery flavor and smaller holes than regular Swiss cheese. It’s popular in fondues and other German dishes.
Of course, the world has many more cheeses than this. Let’s broaden our taste horizons and see what else we can find.
Here’s how to taste it
We’ve learned how to taste wine. But why not cheese? It’s how we can appreciate the differences and maybe build a base of useful knowledge. It might help us make new choices at the cheese case.
First, gather together a pad of paper for taking notes, plus a few types of cheese and a cheese knife. Also, a glass of water for palate cleansing after each taste. Then take a look at one of the cheeses. Note the color, texture, rind (if any), moisture and other features such as cracks or veins of color.
Next, feel the cheese and take note of its firm or soft texture, whether it’s crumbly or creamy and any other features that become apparent. Lift the cheese a few inches from your nose and inhale the aroma. Does it have a pleasant smell? Note whether it’s milky, fruity, nutty or earthy. Do you detect any unpleasant aromas such as ammonia? This might be apparent around the rind.
Then let a small piece of the cheese sit on your tongue for a moment. Then chew it slowly while exhaling through your nose to enhance your taste sensations. Then swallow to detect the lingering “finish.” Does it taste sweet, salty, sour, bitter, mild, sharp or creamy? Do you detect any other flavors? Do you like them or not?
Finally, write down your impressions of each cheese. Which ones do you like best? Or not at all? Why? How do you think you could serve each one?
Remember to drink water between each type of cheese to cleanse your palate. This practice of tasting cheeses will help you understand the many varieties and flavors so you can select them with confidence. And maybe you’ll find some new ones to love.
Know the cheese personalities
Cheeses fall into several categories depending on moisture, firmness, age, flavor and the presence of molds or bacteria. Here’s how to tell them apart.
Moisture is often listed on the package. Low moisture cheeses (13-34%) such as Parmesan are very hard and are typically aged a long time. They also have a grainy texture, and they’re good for grating.
Medium moisture (35-45%) is typically found in semi-hard cheeses such as edam, gouda and cheddar. They hold their shape, but they aren’t as firm as hard cheeses. High moisture (45-55%) cheeses include softer versions like mozzarella, brie, cream cheese and gorgonzola. These are softer and creamier with rich flavor, and they melt easily.Very high moisture (55-80%) cheeses are quite soft, such as cottage cheese and ricotta. They’re spreadable and have a light texture.
Flavor notes also differ in cheeses. For example, mozzarella and ricotta are called “mild” because of their subtle flavors. Nutty and sweet cheeses include types like gouda, which can have caramel notes. Sharp and strong cheeses are aged and have a strong or pungent flavor. These include cheddar or blue cheeses.
Beneficial molds and bacteria also can influence cheese flavors and sharpness. These are intentionally inserted into the cheese before it is aged. For instance, soft-ripened cheeses like brie often have a white, powdery rind that helps make a creamy interior.
Washed-rind cheeses such as limburger are washed with brine or alcohol solutions to encourage natural bacterial growth. And blue cheeses are developed with penicillium molds that create the typical blue veins and crumbly texture.
Obviously, there is much to choose from when it comes to cheese varieties. Even if you’re lactose intolerant, you can stick with hard or sharp cheeses. The aging significantly reduces the amount of lactose, so you still may be able to enjoy them.
Tip of the Week
Don’t throw away those eggshells. Place them in a cake pan in a warm oven to dry them out. Then crush with a mortar and pestle. Sprinkle around your plants to discourage snails. The shells also are a good source of calcium for plants.
Recipe of the Week
Probably everyone loves mac and cheese. It’s a warm memory from childhood for many of us. Next time you reach for the orange powder stuff in a box, stop a moment and consider this (much) better alternative.
Baked Mac and Cheese
Makes 10-12 servings
Ingredients:
3 ½ cups (14 ounces) uncooked elbow macaroni
¼ cup butter (½ stick), cubed
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon ground mustard powder OR 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon black pepper
Few dashes hot pepper sauce
3 ½ cups whole milk
5 cups (1 pound, 4 ounces) freshly shredded cheddar cheese, divided use
Crumbled cooked bacon (optional)
Instructions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Follow package directions to cook macaroni in boiling water until almost tender, about two minutes less than the indicated time. Drain. Do not rinse.
2. While the elbows are cooking, melt butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Stir in flour, salt, mustard, black pepper and pepper sauce until smooth. Cook and stir until bubbly, about one minute.
3. With a wooden spoon or a spatula, stir in the hot cooked macaroni, milk and 4 cups of the cheese. Blend thoroughly. Transfer to an ungreased 13-by-9-inch baking dish.
4. Cover with foil and bake until bubbly, 45-50 minutes. Uncover and sprinkle with the remaining 1 cup cheese.
5. Let stand for five minutes before serving. If desired, top with crumbled bacon.
Tips for success
For creamy cheese sauce, use good butter and freshly grated cheese. Pre-shredded cheese does not melt as well. Also, use whole milk. Substituting skim or low-fat milk will make it less creamy. Do not overcook. Bake only until bubbling and browned, but not too crispy on top.