It’s easy being an extra-green pasta salad

WEEKNIGHT DISHES

Grilled shrimp with chile and garlic. This recipe from Ali Slagle is thrillingly simple for how good it is. DAVID MALOSH — THE NEW YORK TIMES

Sam Sifton described this tomato and watermelon salad recipe as “summer in a bowl: salty and sweet.” DAVID MALOSH — THE NEW YORK TIMES

An act of summer brilliance: Hetty Lui McKinnon tosses juicy tomatoes and handfuls of basil into a pan of fried rice. BRYAN GARDNER — THE NEW YORK TIMES

Yasmin Fahr whisks tahini with lemon, honey and olive oil for the marinade on this new chicken recipe, which you could cook on the grill, in a pan on the stove or in the oven. JOHNNY MILLER — THE NEW YORK TIMES

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By Emily Weinstein

The New York Times

Every summer I seize on one ingredient early on, my culinary song of the summer. As of now, watermelon is it, and there are no other challengers. Cut it up for salads with feta, tomatoes or pineapple! Blend it into frozen daiquiris! Use it to make chaat! Or just eat it by the slice, juicy and cold.

Along with the reddest watermelon, I’m eating the greenest pasta salad, which you’ll find below, along with four other high-summer dinners for this holiday week.

Extra-Green Pasta Salad

This vibrant green pasta salad gets its color from a combination of spinach and basil, but you can swap the spinach for arugula for a more peppery finish. (Some of us need a little bite in our lives!). The miso in the sauce does a lot of the heavy lifting, imparting a salty, almost Parmesan-like quality. You can eat the salad immediately or chilled for a summer picnic. If making it a day ahead, don’t add the basil garnish and cheese until you’re ready to serve. — Andy Baraghani

Yield: 4 to 6 servings. Total time: 30 minutes.

Ingredients

Salt and pepper

1 pound short-cut pasta (such as rigatoni, campanelle or fusilli)

3 cups/8 ounces sugar snap peas

1 cup frozen English peas

3 packed cups/3 1/2 ounces baby spinach

2 packed cups/1 1/2 ounces basil leaves, plus more for serving

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons white miso

1 garlic clove, crushed

Zest and juice from 1 lemon

4 ounces Parmesan (or other firm salty cheese, such as feta or aged Gouda), thinly sliced

directions

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then throw in a handful of salt. Add the pasta, give it a stir and cook until al dente. Just before draining, add the snap peas and English peas to the boiling water to barely soften, 20 to 30 seconds. Drain the pasta and peas and rinse lightly with cold water; set aside.

2. While the pasta water comes to a boil, place the spinach, basil, oil, miso, garlic and lemon zest and juice in a blender. Blend to a bright green purée. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and a few grinds of pepper, then blend again.

3. Transfer the purée to a large bowl that is big enough to toss all the pasta. Add the pasta and peas and toss until coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the Parmesan and more basil leaves. Toss once more before serving.

Grilled Tahini-Honey Chicken Thighs

Simple and impactful, this pantry marinade made from lemon, honey, tahini and olive oil gives chicken a subtle nutty flavor and imparts a gorgeous color — and caramelization — thanks to the honey’s sugar content. You can cook this chicken one of three ways: on the grill, in the oven or a skillet; all options lead to sensational results. Flavorful but versatile, this chicken pairs with almost anything. You could serve a refreshing green salad or grilled vegetables on the side, or tuck the chicken into a toasted pita with avocado, cucumbers and crumbled feta. Sprinkling sumac on the cooked chicken or adding it to the sauce will add extra depth and citrusy notes. — Yasmin Fahr

Yield: 4 servings. Total time: 20 minutes.

Ingredients

2 large lemons, halved

1/4 cup tahini

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for cooking

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs

Salt

1 or 2 sprigs parsley or cilantro leaves and tender stems, gently torn or chopped

Sumac (optional), for garnishing

directions

1. Into a large bowl, juice 1 lemon, then whisk together with the tahini, honey and olive oil until smooth. Transfer half the mixture to a small serving bowl. Season the chicken all over with salt and add to the large bowl; toss to coat.

2. To grill the chicken, set a grill to medium-high. (If you’d like to cook the chicken in the oven or a skillet, see Tip.) Generously oil the grates, then add the chicken and cook until the bottom is charred, 5 to 8 minutes. Use tongs to turn over the thighs and continue to grill until the chicken is cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes depending on the size of the chicken pieces; turn thighs over again if necessary. Move thighs to a cooler part of the grill if browning too quickly.

3. Remove chicken from grill and let cool 1 to 2 minutes. Taste the reserved sauce and season as needed with salt, and loosen the consistency by adding half the lemon juice or a tablespoon of water. Squeeze the remaining lemon half over the chicken, drizzle with the sauce or serve on the side, and garnish with the parsley and sumac, if using.

TIP: This chicken recipe can be cooked on the grill, in the oven or on the stovetop. If you’d like to roast the chicken, heat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a sheet pan with foil and add 1 tablespoon of oil, spreading to coat. Add the chicken in a single layer and roast until cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes depending on the size of the thighs. If you’d like to cook the chicken on the stovetop, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium-high until shimmering. Decrease heat to medium, and, working in two batches, sauté the chicken until cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes depending on the size of the thighs, flipping after 7 to minutes when they easily release from the pan.

Basil and Tomato Fried Rice

Summer’s dynamic duo of tomato and basil make a surprising appearance in this aromatic fried rice. The tomatoes cook down slightly and become sweeter, coating the rice in their vibrant, sun-kissed juices, while basil adds a peppery perfume. This recipe is very adaptable, so make it your own. Use any tomato variety you like. Add more or less basil, or use Thai or holy basil in its place for even bolder flavors. If you want more heat, leave the seeds in the chiles. Finally, for a fresh element, serve with cucumber slices and a lime wedge on the side. — Hetty Lui McKinnon

Yield: 4 servings. Total time: 15 minutes.

Ingredients

4 eggs

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper

Neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable oil

1 yellow onion, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch pieces

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 to 2 bird’s-eye chiles (or other hot chiles), deseeded and finely chopped

2 pounds firm, ripe large or cherry tomatoes (see tip), cut into 3/4-inch wedges if using large tomatoes

5 to 6 cups cooked leftover rice, preferably jasmine

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 1/2 cups tightly packed basil leaves

DIRECTIONS

1. In a bowl, whisk the eggs with 1/2 teaspoon salt.

2. Heat a large wok or 12-inch well-seasoned cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high. When hot, add 1 tablespoon of oil, then pour in the beaten egg. Cook for 15 to 30 seconds, allowing the bottom to set slightly, before stirring and turning until just set. Break up the egg slightly, then remove from the wok and set aside.

3. Heat the wok over high. Add 2 tablespoons of oil, along with the onions, and stir-fry for 1 minute, until slightly softened. Add the garlic and bird’s-eye chiles and stir for 15 to 30 seconds, until fragrant. Next, add the tomatoes and 1 teaspoon of salt, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, tossing every now and then, until the tomatoes are softened. (Reduce heat to medium-high if it starts getting too smoky or the garlic begins to scorch.)

4. Add the rice, soy sauce and half the basil, and season with 1 to 2 teaspoons of salt, to taste. Reduce heat to medium-high and stir-fry for 5 to 6 minutes, allowing the rice to soak up the tomato juices. As the liquid cooks off, the rice will char (though less so if using a nonstick pan) and develop some smoky flavors.

5. Add the egg and remaining basil and toss for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and check seasonings, adding some black pepper and more salt if needed. Serve immediately.

TIP: If using cherry tomatoes, cut up 5 or 6 of them to add moisture during cooking. The rest can be added whole, as they will burst during the latter part of cooking.

Grilled Shrimp With Chile and Garlic

Shrimp are a treat and should be handled as such and this recipe guarantees grilled shrimp that are reliably juicy, charred and seasoned. First, try this trick for plump meat with a browned crust: Stir a little baking soda into mayonnaise, and season it with salt, garlic and chile, which will intensify in the mayonnaise’s fat. Coat the shrimp in the mayonnaise mixture and refrigerate for up to 30 minutes, then grill mostly on one side to avoid overcooking. Eat over grains, lettuces, lemon pasta or noodle salad; in tortillas or pita; or popped right into your mouth. As far as seasonings go, start with chile and garlic, then switch up subsequent batches with lemon zest, Old Bay, ginger and more. — Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 servings. Total time: 25 minutes.

Ingredients

6 garlic cloves

1/2 to 1 fresh hot chile, such as jalapeño or Fresno (depending on the chile’s kick and your heat tolerance)

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

Heaping 1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on, patted dry

directions

1. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for high heat. (If you don’t have a grill, you can cook the shrimp in a cast-iron skillet over high heat, with the vent on, following the same timing.) Using a Microplane or the small holes of a box grater, grate the garlic and chile into a medium bowl. Stir in the mayonnaise, salt and baking soda. Add the shrimp and stir to combine. Refrigerate for 15 to 30 minutes.

2. Clean the grates with a grill brush (no need to grease the grates), then grill the shrimp until well browned, 2 to 4 minutes. (If using a gas grill, close the lid to maintain temperature.) Flip and cook until opaque throughout, 1 to 2 minutes. Eat right away.

Tomato and Watermelon Salad

Summer in a bowl: salty and sweet, with a hint of acidity. Make it with the best tomatoes you can find, a cold watermelon, less dressing than you would think and, if you can find it, Bulgarian feta. — Sam Sifton

Yield: 6 to 8 servings. Total time: 15 minutes.

Ingredients

4 to 6 large tomatoes, ideally heirloom varieties, cut into 1 1/4-inch cubes

1 small seedless watermelon, cut into 1 1/4-inch cubes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 cup feta cheese, torn into large crumbles

directions

1. Combine the cubed tomatoes and watermelon in a large, nonreactive bowl and toss gently to combine. Add salt and let stand 5 to 10 minutes while you prepare the dressing.

2. Whisk together the oil and vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Add the cheese to the tomatoes and watermelon, then the dressing, and toss gently to combine.