French Potato Salad

In this old-fashioned French potato salad with chives and tarragon, medium waxy potatoes are boiled and peeled while still warm, so they best absorb the flavors. They’re then thickly sliced and splashed with an easy vinaigrette.

Makes: 6 generous servings

Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes, plus cooling time

2 1/2 to 3 pounds yellow-fleshed potatoes, such as Yukon Gold

Salt and black pepper

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

6 tablespoons fruity extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon tarragon leaves

1 tablespoon snipped chives

1. Put potatoes in a large pot, cover with water, salt generously and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to a brisk simmer. Cook for about 30 minutes, until cooked through but firm. (Test with a skewer or paring knife.) Drain.

2. Holding each potato in a paper towel or tea towel to keep from burning your fingers, peel the thin skins while still warm with a paring knife (they come away easily). Cut peeled potatoes into thick slices (about 3/8 inch) and place in a large low bowl.

3. In a small bowl, add vinegar and mustard, stirring to dissolve. Whisk in olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour over warm sliced potatoes and very gently and briefly toss with hands, taking care not to break the slices. Sprinkle with a little salt and leave to cool at room temperature.

4. When potatoes have cooled, add tarragon leaves and chives (save some of the herbs for garnish) and very gently toss again. Taste, adjust for salt and toss one more time. The salad should be fairly oily; drizzle with a little more oil if necessary. Serve at room temperature, sprinkled with reserved herbs.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad

For the best result, choose the smallest green beans and sweetest cherry tomatoes. Add arugula or other salad greens just before serving, if you wish.

Makes: 6 servings

Total time: 50 minutes

Salt and black pepper

1/2 pound small green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 cups cherry tomatoes of various colors (about 10 ounces), halved

1/4 cup pitted Niçoise olives, roughly chopped

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice, plus 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest

1 tablespoon capers, roughly chopped

2 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped

1 large garlic clove, grated

A handful of arugula or small lettuce leaves

1. Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil, add green beans and cook for 2 minutes.

2. Drain, spread beans on a kitchen towel and cool to room temperature.

3. Put beans and cherry tomatoes in a low bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. In a small bowl, combine olives, olive oil, lemon juice and zest, capers, anchovy, and garlic. Whisk together and pour over beans and tomatoes. Toss to coat. Check seasoning and adjust. Leave at room temperature.

5. Just before serving, garnish bean-tomato mixture with arugula or salad greens.