Don’t confuse the blasé, lawn-clipping scent of dried tarragon with the richly perfumed fresh version. Fresh tarragon enhances summer foods like no other herb. Its aniselike nose and refreshing taste complement grilled favorites such as vegetables, chicken or fish. Try a slice of tarragon-enriched butter melted over the top of a sizzling hot steak.

Here are two easy ways to use fresh tarragon, tarragon butter and tarragon mayo.

Use this over steak or vegetables, tossed with hot pasta or spread on a sliced toasted baguette. Rolled into a log in parchment paper, it can be chilled in the refrigerator or stored in the freezer.

Yield: 1/2 cup

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon

Pinch of kosher salt

DIRECTIONS

1. In a medium bowl, using a wooden spoon, mix butter with tarragon and salt, blending completely.

2. Place butter on a piece of parchment paper and roll into a log about 4 inches long using the parchment to help shape it. Twist the ends of paper around butter to seal it. Freeze or chill in the refrigerator.

I think this is better than tartar sauce. You can make it with a combination of mayonnaise and plain yogurt along with perky ingredients such as capers, green onions and, of course, fresh tarragon. Serve it with grilled fish, especially salmon patties.

Yield: 1 1/3 cups

INGREDIENTS

1 cup mayonnaise (regular or low-fat)

1/4 cup plain yogurt

4 green onions (white and light green portions), chopped

1 tablespoon drained, small capers

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon prepared horseradish sauce

DIRECTIONS

1. Stir all ingredients together in a medium bowl. Refrigerate up to 2 days well sealed.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.