Yes, this is a recipe for salad, but it’s really about the ricotta. More specifically, it’s about whipped ricotta.

We all know ricotta as the ubiquitous filling in lasagna and other filled pasta dishes. What you may not know is that when you whip ricotta, it transforms into a creamy, airy pillow of brilliant white cheese. Add to that a splash of olive oil or a little lemon zest, and suddenly this whipped whey cheese develops flavor and dimension and morphs into a versatile alternative to creme fraiche and whipped cream. Use it as a dip or as a base for pizza, spread it on toast, crostini or sandwiches, or simply drizzle it with honey and serve a dollop with fresh berries.

Lemony whipped ricotta teams up with sweet roasted beets in this vibrant spring salad. As the beets cook, their earthy juices will release into the pan and mingle with the generous glug of oil used to coat the beets. It’s important to save this juice after roasting, because it will be added to the dressing.

Use a dense, creamy whole-milk ricotta that smells dairy-fresh and tastes milky and mildly sweet. Avoid watery, grainy, part-skim ricotta and any ricotta that has a funky aroma.

Lynda Balslev is an award-winning writer, cookbook author, and recipe developer based in Marin. Visit TasteFood at TasteFoodblog.com.