This year has seen an uptick in turf-related projects along the Front Range and elsewhere in Colorado. From putting in native and water-thrifty plants or replacing lawn turf with more drought-tolerant grass varieties or replacing the lawn with clover, there are options to consider, depending on the desired outcome.

Conserving water and attracting pollinators seem to be the top reasons for these projects. Decades ago, there were just a few Colorado gardeners and landscape professionals who were espousing using plants and practices more suited to our dry, sun-drenched landscapes — techniques that differed from the popular norm of wall-to-wall turf grass. We thank them for their sagacity, because they stayed the course and proved that more ecologically oriented landscapes can be both resourceful and beautiful places where we want to spend time.

Does this mean the backyard lawns that host fun with kids and dogs should go away? Not at all. Grass lawns remain a viable and practical mass groundcover solution for many homeowners and certainly for our valued public city parks, stadiums and other areas. Nothing wrong with having both: a manageable lawn space to walk on while having your morning coffee plus natural places in the landscape where there is close viewing of colorful and beneficial insect and bird activity as they dart and dine on plants that make us happy.

Now that fall has officially arrived after a very hot, dry summer, it is easy to see that the lawn might need some TLC and attention before cold weather arrives and stays.

To better understand your lawn type, whether you have a cool or warm season lawn, go to bit.ly/4gJ4o28 to read about lawn basics. I also covered full lawn renovation at bit.ly/3ZZMXo7. Clover lawns will be covered at a future date.

It cannot be said often enough that to grow a healthy lawn, it is all about providing consistent, appropriate care that can help in preventing problems. Here are three cool-season fall lawn-care tips that will improve the lawn in the short and long term.

1. For dead lawn areas due to pet or pest damage, watering issues or fungus, overseeding with a similar and more drought-tolerant grass seed is the least expensive and less strenuous way to bring a positive lawn result. Seeding can thicken up older existing lawns that may be thinned out from summer activity and too much shade.

Get going now because grass seed can take several days to a week or more to germinate and begin growing. Head to your local independent garden center and pick up seeds that match your sunlight and growing conditions.

Aerating the lawn and bare areas first with a lawn service or your own pitchfork or hand aerator allows grass seeds to go directly into the root areas for better germination. Flag sprinkler heads so they won’t be damaged by machinery.

Lawn aeration is one of the most beneficial fall tasks that result in improved grass root growth and reduction in thatch, the layer of decomposing roots and stems that leads to less water penetration and shallow grass rooting.

Water the lawn well a day or two prior to aerating. Poke many holes in the area so lots of seeds go into lots of holes. Fertilizing the lawn after seeding is helpful to turf health, along with top dressing the seeded area and entire lawn with a half-inch layer of compost, not too thick. Be sure to water the seeded, fertilized and top-dressed areas well and keep the seeds moist with daily watering.

Continue regular watering of existing lawns, trees, shrubs and plants until at least mid-October instead of stopping in September. As temperatures fall and become consistently lower than 70 degrees, reduce watering days but not sprinkler run times. Regular watering helps plants go into a healthy dormancy.

2. Weeds in lawns and surrounding areas put on deep growth in the fall to get them through the winter, so get a jump on next year’s weeds and remove them now. Hand dig or spot treat.

3. Fallen leaves left on lawns for months is not recommended. Not only can they be slippery when wet, but they also smother lawns leading to more issues in the spring, plus leaves hide animal waste.

Dried leaves are considered garden treasures by those in the know. Try mowing them into the lawn. When making several mowing passes over the lawn dried leaves leave little bits of themselves which will only break down further over the winter and add valuable organic matter and nutrients to the soil. Dried leaves can also be mowed and bagged for use in exposed soil locations such as vegetable or annual beds to reduce soil erosion and provide protection as a winter “bed.” Use leaves as mulch around perennials and new plantings. Dried leaves make excellent additions to compost piles.

Betty Cahill speaks and writes about gardening in the Rocky Mountain Region.