


Everyone knows Tennessee Valley is one of Marin’s best casual hikes. The classic route from trailhead to beach is a favorite for anyone who wants to experience Marin’s rugged natural beauty without breaking too much of a sweat. Yet it sits amid a vast web of trails crisscrossing the surrounding countryside, and you can use it as a point of departure for much more serious hikes, including a trek to isolated Muir Beach.
There are multiple ways to access Muir Beach from Tennessee Valley, but none are an easy trek given that the tiny town lies on the other side of the hill that defines the valley’s northern perimeter, so expect a lot of climbing both on your way there and back. The rewards for persevering are substantial — Muir Beach is one of Marin’s hidden gems, a fairy-tale town seemingly tucked away from the rest of civilization despite only being a few miles from Mill Valley and Stinson Beach.
This hike is not dog-friendly, as even leashed dogs are not allowed on many of the trails in the area.
• Summary of hike: The trailhead and parking lot are at the end of Tennessee Valley Road. Start at Tennessee Valley Trailhead and walk 0.3 miles until you reach the trailhead for Fox Trail (slightly up the road from the trail going to Haypress Campground). Follow Fox Trail for 1.4 miles until it becomes Coastal Trail. Stay on the Coastal Trail for another 1.6 miles until you arrive in Muir Beach. To return, you can go back the way you came and take a different route (i.e., the Pirates Cove Trail) or complete the loop via the Middle Green Gulch Trail (about 2.4 miles) back to the Fox Trail. Expect to walk at least 7 miles.
• The hike: The Fox Trail is scarcely used even during busy days in Tennessee Valley. During spring, expect to see magnificent blooms of wildflowers along the side of the trail. Last time I took the trail, a blue heron nearly as tall as me was patiently waiting at the side of the trailhead to snatch any errant bugs or rodents in the underbrush. You may also see California quail scurrying from one bush to another. Sharp-eyed observers might be able to see bobcats, turkeys and deer in the distant scrubland. Beware of rattlesnakes, which are more active in the warmer months.
As the Fox Trail climbs higher, you’ll be able to spot the ocean in the distance. The Fox Trail splits into Coyote Ridge and the Coastal Trail. Take the Coastal Trail, which takes a sharp descent down the other side of the hill. Bring grippy shoes to avoid sliding down the steep, gravelly trail on your way down. You will see the town of Muir Beach during this portion of the trail, its houses glinting idyllically from the hillside.
The Coastal Trail intersects with a path leading to the beach itself, on the left, and the famed Pelican Inn, on the right. The Pelican Inn has food and drinks and is a good destination for an English pub-style meal — a reward for all your strenuous work. May 25 is the date of the Muir Beach Volunteer Firemen’s Barbecue, so time your hike for this event if you’re looking for another food option.
There are a few ways of completing the loop. You could go back the way you came and take a slightly different route from the Coastal Trail, i.e., the Pirates Cove trail, which also leads back to Tennessee Valley.
Personally, I prefer to go back via the Green Gulch Farm Zen Center, which can be accessed via a trail across the street from the Pelican Inn. The center is a little over half a mile from the inn. You can walk through the property, but be sure to close the gates leading in and out of the center, lest wild deer and other creatures find their way onto the property and interfere with the crops. You may encounter horses during this segment of the hike, either on the trail or in the farm’s pastures.
The Middle Green Gulch Trail winds from the Zen Center through emerald vegetation and scattered patches of shady forest, ending at the Coyote Ridge Trail. Go right on the Coyote Ridge trail and you’ll soon find yourself on the Fox Trail where you started. From there, you can descend and return quickly to the Tennessee Valley trailhead.