








The Mediterranean diet tends to get a lot of props because it’s such a healthful and colorful way of eating.
Focused on whole grains, fresh fruits and vegetables and healthy fats like extra virgin olive oil, it can help lower risk factors for heart disease, including high cholesterol and high blood pressure. It also pleases seafood lovers because fatty fishes that contain omega-3 fatty acids are often a supporting player in recipes, along with fresh shellfish like shrimp, clams and scallops.
Best of all, foods from warm and sunny countries bordering the Mediterranean sea, including Italy, Greece and Spain, just plain taste good.
Many of us have grown up eating countless pasta dishes and consider them essential comfort food. Pittsburgh takes pride in its many farmers markets and growing number of food artisans, but we also love garden and pantry ingredients closely associated with traditional Italian and other coastal cuisines —plump red tomatoes, parsley, oregano and other fresh herbs, salty cheeses and fruity oils.
If you’re looking to expand your repertoire of Mediterranean foods — and who isn’t? — three new cookbooks will scratch that culinary itch pretty deliciously.
Milk Street cookbooks are always a welcome addition to any kitchen library because they’re so user-friendly, emphasizing recipes that include only a handful of easy-to-find ingredients and simple techniques that make cooking both accessible and enjoyable.
“Milk Street Backroads Italy: Finding Italy’s Forgotten Recipes” by editors Christopher Kimball and J.M. Hirsch (Voracious) is no exception.
Every recipe in this 400-page hardback gets a glamour shot that is bound to make your mouth water, and its pages include gorgeous images of Italian cooks, raw ingredients and the occasional vista from all 20 of its diverse regions.
A glossary of Italian pantry essentials every aspiring cook should keep on hand (and widely available in American groceries) is followed by more than 145 recipes that aim to bring simplicity back into the kitchen.
The classic recipes were gleaned from a variety of sources — from hotels and small trattorias to home kitchens and farms — and cover all the major food groups. Along with salads, soups and sides, you’ll find rice and bean dishes, entrees featuring seafood, pizza and, of course, dozens of pasta dishes with various sauces.Ever the teacher, Kimball and his James Beard Award-winning team at Milk Street include a tutorial on homemade pasta (it’s easy, with practice!), and every recipe starts with one or two helpful tips, such as how much pasta water to use or when to cover a pot.
Thanks to the beautiful photography, “Backroads Italy” is as much a guide book for armchair travelers as a cookbook for those who want to learn to make better, more authentic Italian food.
“The Regional Italian Cookbook: Recipes from The Silver Spoon” (Phaidon) also takes a culinary journey across Italy, with recipes drawn from all 20 regions, from Piedmont in the north to Calabria in the south, along with the islands of Sicily and Sardinia.
It’s not quite as lush as the Milk Street tome. Still, you’ll find inviting photos of most of its 160 recipes, each of which embodies that particular region’s gastronomic identity. Each chapter includes a brief explanation of the culinary identity of the region, including how the climate impacts what’s grown there and what wines locals drink .
Abruzzo, for instance, is “where cooking is still what it used to be,” while Tuscany features “the inalienable pleasure of meat.”
Organized geographically, the recipes feature both iconic dishes like spaghetti carbonara, timbale, lasagna and tiramisu, and lesser-known (and more adventurous) gems like sweet and sour sardines, Ischia-style rabbit and venison in blueberry sauce.
Geared more to an ambitious chef who wants to push the envelope, often with less familiar ingredients, it’s probably not a cookbook you’ll reach for on a busy weekday evening or when you have to feed fussy eaters. That said, many of its recipes call for items you probably already have in your pantry or can easily find, and some require five or fewer ingredients. It’s definitely worth exploring on weekends, or for those occasions when you want something that dazzles on the dinner table.
“The Regional Italian Cookbook” comes with some serious cred: It was produced by The Silver Spoon, which has been a trusted guide to authentic Italian cooking since the 1950s. It includes helpful legends for vegetarian, vegan and gluten-, nut- and dairy-free dishes.
“The Spanish Mediterranean Islands Cookbook” by Jeff Koehler (Phaidon) also celebrates traditional Mediterranean ingredients like olive oil, garlic, rice, fresh fish, fruits, veggies and legumes, but with a twist: Its 155 recipes have been passed down through the generations on the rural Balearic Islands off of Spain’s eastern coast: Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera, each with its own distinctive flavors.
Because the islands were long secluded from the mainland, meals rely heavily on local produce and preserves; recipes are rustic and creative. Sheep, rabbit and chicken are mainstays, along with pork, which is used not just as charcuterie but also as an ingredient in meat dishes and pastries.
Another local favorite is allioli, a garlic and olive oil emulsion spread on bread and dolloped on rice dishes.
“Overall, a strong sensibility toward food and an attitude of taking little for granted remains,” Koehler writes.
Recipes include everything from soups, stews and salads to rice and pasta dishesa wide variety of meat (rabbit, liver, pork loin, lamb, goat) and seafood courses. Some of the fish fare embrace ingredients that could be hard to find in Western Pennsylvania — red mullet, sea bream, skate and fresh sardines, to name a few.
Each recipe includes ingredient icons (vegan, gluten-free, etc.) and users also will find a helpful substitution guide. There’s also a short section on techniques detailing how to desalt salt cod, clean squid and grate tomatoes.
My only quibble, and it’s a small one: While the cookbook’s food photography is lovely, I found myself wishing there were more images of the archipelago itself and its people so I could better envision what’s described on its cover as “one of the world’s most enchanting destinations.”
Scampi in Tomatoes and White Wine
This easy shrimp recipe isn’t as garlicky or buttery as some scampi dishes (the garlic cloves are added to the pan whole, instead of minced).
Given its simple preparation and handful of ingredients, it’s perfect for a busy midweek meal because it only takes about 15 minutes start to finish. I used large Gulf shrimp and canned tomato paste.
Serves 8. Source: “The Regional Italian Cookbook: Recipes from The Silver Spoon” by The Silver Spoon Kitchen (Phaidon).
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon tomato paste
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 or 3 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
24 large scampi (shrimp), shelled
Generous splash dry white wine
3 or 4 tablespoons bread crumbs
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Salt and black pepper
DIRECTIONS
Add tomato paste to a cup or small bowl and dilute with a little hot water.
Heat oil in a large saucepan with a lid, add onion and saute for 10 minutes. Add garlic and saute until the cloves turn golden, then remove and discard them.
Add shrimp to the pan and stir gently until they color. Add tomato paste and wine, and cook for 3-4 minutes, shaking the pan frequently.
Sprinkle bread crumbs over the shrimp and cook for 1-2 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper
Remove form heat, transfer the shrimp to a serving dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve immediately.
Pasta e Piselli Orecchiette with Tomatoes, Peas and Pancetta
I used a little more tomato paste and cheese than called for in this simple pasta recipe, which resulted in a bit heartier dish. I also didn’t add the full 2 quarts of water since I used a saucepan instead of a Dutch oven.
The pasta is cooked directly in the mix, which lends the sauce starchiness and body. Don’t worry about defrosting the peas — adding frozen prevents overcooking.
If you’re feeling ambitious, try your hand at making the orecchiette from scratch. My “little ears” weren’t perfect — practice is required — but they still tasted great.
Serves 4-6. Source: “Milk Street Backroads Italy: Finding Italy’s Forgotten Recipes” by Christopher Kimball and J.M. Hirsch (Voracious)
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
4 ounces pancetta, chopped
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
12 ounces plum tomatoes, cored and chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 pound dried orecchiette, or 1 batch homemade (recipe follows)
2 cups frozen peas
1 cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
2 ounces pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated (about 1 cup), plus more to serve
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS
In large Dutch oven over medium heat, combine oil and pancetta. Cook, stirring, until browned and crisped, 5-7 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate. Add onion to the fat remaining in the pot. Cook, stirring, until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes.
Add tomatoes and cook, stirring often while pressing gently to encourage them to soften, until they have broken down to a pulpy consistency, about 5 minutes.
Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, until the paste darkens and begins to stick to the pot, about 2 minutes.
Add 2 quarts water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add pasta and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 10 minutes. (Fresh orecchiette will cook faster.)
Off heat, add pancetta, peas, parsley and pecorino. Stir until cheese has melted and peas have thawed, about 1 minute. Let stand uncovered, for 5 minutes to thicken slightly.
Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve drizzled with additional olive oil and sprinkled with additional pecorino,
Homemade Orecchiette
INGREDIENTS
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
1 1/4 cups semolina flour, plus more as needed and for dusting
Kosher salt, for cooking
DIRECTIONS
In large bowl, mix flours together. Make a well in the center, then pour in 3/4 cup water.
Stir with a fork, starting in the center and gradually moving outward until a shaggy dough forms.
Using your hands, knead the dough in the bowl, incorporating dry bits. The dough should be moist enough to form a cohesive mass without sticking to the sides of the bowl.
Dust the counter with semolina and turn the dough out onto it. Knead until smooth and springy, about 10 minutes. For a ball, cover with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 hour.
After dough has rested, divide into 4 portions. Roll 1 piece into a log, then roll log into a rope about 1/2 inch in diameter. Cut the rope into 1/4 -inch pieces.
Dust the piece with semolina. Take one piece and set it cut side up on an unfloured area of the counter.
Press the flat of your thumb into the center of the piece and while applying pressure, smear or drag the dough against the counter with slight twisting action; the dough may curl a bit around your thumb. Shape the remaining dough the same way.
Chicken in Herby Tomato Sauce
Who doesn’t love a one-pot dish? This classic chicken dish celebrates key elements from the Balearic kitchen — tomatoes, garlic and fresh herbs.
I used all bone-in chicken thighs.
Serves 4. Source: “The Spanish Islands Mediterranean Cookbook” by Jeff Koehler (Phaidon)
INGREDIENTS
4 bone-in chicken leg pieces (drumsticks and thighs), some of the skin removed
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
5 ripe tomatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), halved and grated
1 heaped teaspoon sweet paprika
Pinch of sugar, optional
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus extra leaves for serving
2 sprigs fresh thyme
Salt and pepper
DIRECTIONS
Generously season chicken with salt and pepper.
Heat oil in a shallow, flameproof casserole pan, Dutch oven or heavy saute pan over medium-high heat. Add chicken and brown, turning as needed, for 6-8 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
In same pan, cook the onions until soft, 10-15 minutes. Stir in garlic, add tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add paprika, sugar, parsley and thyme.
Return the chicken to the pan and turn the pieces to coat with the tomato sauce. Partly cover the pan and cook over low heat until the chicken is done, about 45 minutes. Stir in a touch of water during cooking, if needed, to keep the sauce loose.
Serve at the table from the casserole, scattered with more parsley, if desired.
Spongy Orange, Olive Oil and Yogurt Cake
This moist and easy-to-make sponge cake known as pa de pessic uses olive oil and yogurt instead of milk and butter. It’s flavored with oranges, which grow on the southern slopes of Mallorca’s Serra de Tramuntana range. While it’s often served as dessert, it also makes a great breakfast.
Serves 10-12. Source: “The Spanish Islands Mediterranean Cookbook” by Jeff Koehler (Phaidon).
INGREDIENTS
Butter, for greasing
1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
3 large eggs, separated
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1/3 cup mild olive oil
Zest and juice of 1 orange (about 1/3 cup)
1 tablespoon baking powder
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 10-inch round or springform cake pan with butter and dust with flour, shaking out the excess. You also can line the pan with parchment paper.
In mixing bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar with hand-held electric beaters until well combined. Add yogurt, oil and orange zest and juice and blend in,
Add flour and baking powder and mix until the batter is combined but not overly beaten.
In another bowl, whisk egg whites to soft peaks. Fold them into the batter, working the spatula from the bottom up to retain as much volume as possible. Transfer mixture into the pan. Bake until cooked through and still spongy (a toothpick poked into the center should come out clean), about 30 minutes. Do not open the oven during baking! Remove from oven and let cool before turning out of the pan.
Dust with confectioners’ sugar before slicing and serving. Store covered snugly with plastic wrap or in an airtight container for up to 5 days.