From soup to sauce, mushrooms rule

RECIPE ROUNDUP

Cream of mushroom soup with green onions Roasted mushrooms gremolata-style Rigatoni with quick mushroom Bolognese They bring earthy flavor and can often substitute for meat

This cream of mushroom soup with green onions and garlic has an earthy taste, frothy texture and only 60 calories per serving. Photo by Cathy Thomas

Roasted mushrooms gremolata-style can be served over a bed of farro accompanied by cherry tomatoes. Photo by Cathy Thomas

Rigatoni with quick mushroom Bolognese is a vegetarian dish that many carnivores will enjoy. Mushrooms chopped fine mimic meat. Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen

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By Cathy Thomas

Correspondent

Highly prized for their versatility, mushrooms have flavor profiles range from woodsy to nutty, musty to mild. They are loaded with umami, that quality described as the fifth taste, exemplified by the savory flavor of meat or broth. Beyond mushrooms’ flavor, many people contend they boost gut health and pack anti-inflammatory properties.

Don’t be intimidated by them. Look for firm mushrooms that are free of soft spots or mold. Wash them just before using but be sure to store them unwashed. Never submerge in water to wash them because mushrooms absorb like a sponge and become mushy. Wipe with moist paper towels. Some prefer to clean them with a soft-bristled mushroom brush. If extremely dirty, they can be very briefly dunked into cold water and wiped dry.

These are many varieties, but to make it easy, the following recipes showcase easy-to-find mushrooms: white button, cremini (immature portobello) and “baby bellas” (a label for the tweeners bigger than standard cremini but not as big as portobellos). Shiitakes lend themselves to soup or roasting (be sure to remove the stem before using).

I love this quick-to-make soup. Each serving has only 60 calories. The dark brown caps of cremini mushrooms add a delightful earthiness. The concoction is frothy like a cappuccino, especially if you use a handheld immersion blender to puree.

Yield: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

6 to 8 green onions, trimmed, divided use

Olive oil cooking spray

14 ounces sliced cremini mushrooms (about 3 cups)

2 medium-sized garlic cloves, minced

Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 cups fat-free, low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

1 (12-ounce) can fat-free evaporated milk

DIRECTIONS

1. Cut green onions into 1/4-inch thick slices. Make two piles: one with the white and light green slices, the other with the dark green stalks. Use enough onions to make about 1/2 cup of white and light green slices.

2. Spray a 4-quart pan or Dutch oven liberally with cooking spray and place on medium-high heat. Add white and light green slices of green onion, mushrooms and garlic. Cook until mushrooms are tender-crisp and start to release liquid, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Add broth and evaporated milk. Cover and bring to boil; reduce heat to medium-low and gently simmer until mushrooms are tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

4. I prefer pureeing with an immersion blender — it makes it frothier. If you don’t have one, work in 3 batches, pureeing the soup in a blender (use caution and hold down lid with potholder), or use a food processor. Ladle soup into bowls and grind a little pepper on each serving. Top with several slices of dark green onion stalks.

Source: “50 Best Plants on the Planet” by Cathy Thomas (Chronicle)

Roasting mushrooms brings out their earthiness. The high-heat method creates a caramelized, well-browned surface that adds a degree of subtle sweetness. I like to use creminis, while baby bellas work too.

Once they’re out of the oven, toss them with a gremolata, an Italian seasoning that includes minced citrus zest, chopped garlic and fresh herbs (most often parsley). Use as a side dish, or for the main event, I like to serve them tumbled over a bed of cooked farro. Or use them as an omelet filling along with some crumbled goat cheese.

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 pounds mixed mushrooms, or cremini or baby bellas

Extra-virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic (2 smashed and peeled, 2 chopped)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

2 tablespoons dried (plain or seasoned) breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed, drained, chopped

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. To remove bits of debris, brush mushrooms with a wet paper towel or kitchen towel. Trim bottoms of stems if they look discolored. Cut mushrooms so they are all about the same size; this may require slicing larger mushrooms in half or quarters.

2. Place mushrooms and smashed garlic in bowl. Add enough oil to lightly coat, plus salt and pepper. Toss, massaging in oil to coat. Place in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Roast in preheated oven until browned and crisp around the edges. Roasting time will vary depending on the moisture in the mushrooms, between 15 and 28 minutes.

3. Toss mushrooms and roasted garlic with chopped garlic, zest, juice, breadcrumbs, capers and parsley. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Source: Adapted from “Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables,” by Joshua McFadden (Artisan)

The chefs at America’s Test Kitchen verify that cremini mushrooms pulsed to small bits in a food processor do an excellent job of mimicking meat. In their new book “Mostly Meatless” they show off the fungi in a quick-to-make Bolognese over rigatoni. Grated Pecorino Romano cheese brings a savory oomph. Vegetarians and carnivores can both enjoy this dish.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon salt

1 pound rigatoni

1/4 teaspoon salt, plus salt for cooking pasta, divided use

1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed, quartered

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, peeled, finely chopped

1/4 cup tomato paste

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for serving

DIRECTIONS

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a Dutch oven. Add 1 tablespoon salt and the pasta; cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of cooking water, then drain pasta and return to pot.

2. Meanwhile, pulse the mushrooms in a food processor until finely chopped, about 10 pulses. Heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add mushrooms, onion, carrot and 1/4 teaspoon salt; cook until mushrooms appear dry and begin to stick to the bottom of skillet, about 14 minutes.

3. Stir in tomato paste and garlic; cook about 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until evaporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in reserved cooking water and bring to a boil. Add sauce and Pecorino to pasta in pot and stir to combine. Serve with extra Pecorino.

Source: “Mostly Meatless,” from America’s Test Kitchen