This fast bolognese has a secret ingredient

WEEKNIGHT DISHES

Lemony chicken with potatoes and oregano. JULIA GARTLAND — THE NEW YORK TIMES

Blackened salmon. CHRISTOPHER TESTANI — THE NEW YORK TIMES

This Greek rice dish, which Hetty Lui McKinnon tops with eggs, is a reminder and even a promise that spring is going to come. CHRISTOPHER TESTANI — THE NEW YORK TIMES

Wherever you are, your winter needs black bean soup, and that soup needs coconut milk. DAVID MALOSH — THE NEW YORK TIMES

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By Emily Weinstein

The New York Times

Time is a key ingredient in cooking, as essential to a recipe as the flour in a loaf of bread. For instance, the hours of simmer time in stews and braises build flavor in the pan, creating intensity and nuance you can’t get any other way.

But there are a few cheats: ingredients like Parmesan rinds, miso and fish sauce that can hint at that long-cooked depth but in an amount of time that makes sense for a Tuesday night after piano lessons or a trip to the gym. Genevieve Ko’s new recipe for spicy, creamy weeknight Bolognese — a shortcut version of a pasta sauce that normally simmers for an afternoon — uses red curry paste as its instant flavor deepener, a brilliant secret ingredient. Dinner won’t actually taste like red curry; the paste just quietly helps make the sauce whole.

Spicy, Creamy Weeknight Bolognese

This pasta sauce captures the soul-soothing essence of a long-simmering Bolognese even though it cooks quickly. Searing ground beef gives it a caramelized taste that mimics the depth of slow-cooked meat. Adding a few spoonfuls of red curry paste doesn’t make it taste like curry but gives it instant nuance and depth. Some rich cream at the end rounds the sharp heat to an enveloping warmth. To save even more time, you can chop the vegetables while the meat is cooking. The sauce tastes great on any type of pasta, but it’s especially nice with varieties that can capture it in their curves. — Genevieve Ko

Yield: 4 to 6 servings. Total time: 35 minutes.

Salt and black pepper

1 pound ground beef (at least 20% fat)

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

2 to 3 tablespoons red curry paste

1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 pound short, curled pasta, such as pipettes

1 cup heavy cream

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, heat a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over high until very hot. Add the beef, and smush and spread in a single layer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then cook, stirring, to break into tiny bits and cook through, 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Push the meat to one side, and add the onion and carrots to the beef fat on the other side. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally with the beef, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes.

4. Add the curry paste, 2 tablespoons for a mild spiciness and 3 for more heat, and stir until darkened in color, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the tomato sauce, then fill the can a third of the way up with water to swish out the rest of the sauce into the pot. Stir, bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and simmer while the pasta cooks.

5. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until al dente. Save 1/2 cup pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta and add to the simmering sauce.

6. Stir the cream into the sauced pasta, taste and season with salt and pepper. For a thinner sauce, stir in a bit of the pasta water. Serve hot.

Blackened Salmon

Coating fish fillets in a flavorful spice mixture and cooking them in a searing-hot pan until blackened is a technique popularized by legendary Louisiana chef Paul Prudhomme. In this version, center-cut salmon fillets gain a crisp, deeply seasoned crust while remaining tender and flaky on the inside. For the telltale blackened crust, you’ll need to start with a hot pan (cast-iron works best). Be sure to crack a window and turn on the exhaust fan, if possible, as there will be some smoke. Serve blackened salmon with any combination of side salad, rice and grilled or roasted vegetables; or use as a filling for tacos or fish sandwiches. — Naz Deravian

Yield: 4 servings. Total time: 20 minutes.

Ingredients

For the blackening spice:

1 1/2 tablespoons smoked or sweet paprika

1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder

1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground cayenne

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

For the salmon:

4 (6- to 8-ounce) center-cut salmon fillets, skin removed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Lemon wedges, for serving

DIRECTIONS

1. Make the blackening spice: In a small bowl, mix the paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, salt, cayenne, black pepper, thyme and oregano.

2. Turn on the exhaust fan and heat a large cast-iron pan (or other heavy-bottomed pan) over medium-high for about 5 minutes. (If using a pan that isn’t cast-iron, your pan may heat up faster.)

3. Cook the salmon: While the pan heats, pat the salmon fillets dry with a paper towel and place on a large plate or small sheet pan. Set aside 2 teaspoons of the melted butter for serving. Brush half of the remaining butter on one side of the salmon fillets, then sprinkle half of the blackening spice evenly over that side. Using your fingers, gently press the spices on so they stick. Flip the fish, then repeat on the remaining side.

4. Adjust the heat under the pan to medium, carefully place the salmon in the hot pan and cook until the spices have darkened and the fish is cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes per side, using tongs and a thin spatula to carefully flip the fish.

5. Remove from the heat, drizzle with reserved melted butter and serve with lemon wedges.

Lemony Chicken With Potatoes and Oregano

This might be the easiest roast chicken and potatoes recipe out there. Roasting lemon slices with the potatoes infuses them with a bright, zippy flavor. Then, you can eat the roasted lemon or not — the caramelized, intense flavor is for true lemon lovers only. Serve this with one or two of your favorite condiments on the side for dipping the potatoes. — Melissa Clark

Yield: 2 servings. Total time: 50 minutes.

Ingredients

2 lemons

1 1/4 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (2 to 3), patted dry with paper towels (see Tip below)

1 1/4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed, halved and cut into 1/2-inch wedges

1 3/4 teaspoons dried oregano, plus more for serving

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more for serving

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup or hot sauce, for serving

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat oven to 425 degrees and, if you like, line a sheet pan with parchment paper (not essential but helpful for cleaning up).

2. Trim the ends off 1 lemon, then cut the lemon in half crosswise. Thinly slice one half of the lemon into rounds, then cut the rounds into quarters, creating small triangles. Shake out the seeds then place the lemon quarters into a large bowl. Save the remaining lemon half for serving. Cut the remaining whole lemon into wedges, for serving.

3. Add chicken and potatoes to the large bowl with the lemon quarters. Add the oregano, salt and pepper; toss well. (Your hands are the best tools here.) Drizzle in the oil and toss again.

4. Arrange chicken thighs skin side up on one half of the prepared sheet pan, and potatoes and lemons on the other, spreading the potatoes out into one layer. Roast for 20 minutes. Using a long-handled spoon, stir the potatoes, then spread them out again in one layer. (You don’t have to touch the chicken.) Continue roasting until chicken and potatoes are cooked through and everything is golden and crisped, another 15 to 20 minutes (40 to 45 minutes total roasting time).

5. To serve, squeeze the juice from the lemon half all over chicken and potatoes and give everything a good stir to incorporate all the tasty juices and browned bits at the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle with more oregano and salt, and serve with additional lemon wedges and condiments on the side.

Tips: You can substitute 1 1/4 pounds chicken drumsticks for the thighs, or use a combination of thighs and drumsticks. Bone-in, skin-on breasts can also be substituted; because they cook more quickly than dark meat does, you’ll need to start checking on them after 30 minutes of total roasting time.

Spanakorizo With Jammy Eggs

Bright and soulful, spanakorizo is a beloved Greek dish, with a name that reflects its combination of two key ingredients: spinach and rice. This version is fairly traditional in its essence, relying upon rice, spinach, lemon and herbs, but includes some flourishes. Though the addition of the jammy egg is not traditional, it injects a sunny burst of color as well as added protein. For ease, this recipe calls for baby spinach (or chopped mature spinach), but frozen spinach can also be used (simply thaw it and squeeze out the water), or try a hardy green like chard or kale. A whole bunch of scallions delivers a richly aromatic base for the rice. Basmati is used here for its quick cooking time and light finish, but if you would like to use more traditional medium-grain rice, simply add an extra 1/2 cup of stock (2 cups total). As with any recipe, the timing is a guideline, but you should use your senses: Check your rice at the 15-minute mark, as some brands of rice will cook quicker than others. — Hetty Lui McKinnon

Total time: 30 minutes.

Ingredients

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

1 bunch scallions (6 to 9 stems), trimmed and thinly sliced

1 pound baby spinach (or 1 pound mature spinach, trimmed and roughly chopped)

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Salt and pepper

1 cup basmati rice

1 1/2 cups vegetable stock

4 large eggs

1 lemon, juiced (3 to 4 tablespoons)

1 cup roughly chopped dill or parsley

1 (6-ounce) block Greek feta, crumbled (about 1 1/3 cups)

directions

1. Heat a large, wide Dutch oven or deep skillet on medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and scallions and stir until fragrant and softened, 2 minutes. Add the spinach (depending upon the size of your pot, you may need to add it gradually, throwing in more as it cooks down), garlic and about 1 teaspoon salt; toss until wilted, about 2 minutes.

2. Stir in the rice, then pour in the stock. Bring to the boil and then cover, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until the liquid has been absorbed and rice is cooked, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high. Add the eggs in their shells to the boiling water and continue to cook over medium-high for 7 minutes. (Make sure you set a timer.) Set up an ice bath. Using a spider ladle or slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water and immediately add them to the ice bath. Cool for 3 to 4 minutes and then peel them.

4. When the rice is ready, turn off the heat. Uncover and add the lemon juice and half of the herbs and gently toss them through the rice. Taste to check seasonings, adding salt if needed.

5. Divide the spinach rice among bowls. Halve the eggs and place the halves on top of the rice; top each with feta and additional herbs. To finish, drizzle over some olive oil and season well with pepper.

Coconut Black Bean Soup

Earthy black bean soup gets a plush makeover with the addition of canned coconut milk, which lends richness and a sweet, mellow flavor. Whole cumin seeds and tomato paste add depth, while jalapeño contributes both brightness and heat to the pot. You can puree the soup until it’s velvety smooth, or leave it a little chunky. Either way, it makes for a satisfying and hearty weeknight meal. — Melissa Clark

Yield: 4 servings. Total time: 35 minutes.

Ingredients

1 large white onion, peeled

2 limes, 1 halved and 1 cut into wedges

1 3/4 teaspoons kosher salt (Diamond Crystal or use 3/4 teaspoon Morton), plus more to taste

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 jalapeño, seeded if desired and minced

1 bunch cilantro, stems and leaves separated

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 (15.5-ounce) cans black beans, drained

1 (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk

1 cup vegetable or chicken stock, plus more if needed

directions

1. Cut the white onion in half lengthwise and then cut lengthwise again into quarters. Thinly slice one quarter of the onion. Add slices to a small bowl and stir in the juice of 1/2 lime and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Set aside for serving. Dice the remaining onion and reserve.

2. Heat a large soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-high. Once hot, add the oil. Add the diced onion and cook until tender and golden at the edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute or until fragrant.

3. Stir in the jalapeño. Mince 1/4 cup cilantro stems and add to the pan. Cook until the jalapeño and cilantro stems are tender, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, cumin seeds, black pepper and remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the tomato paste darkens.

4. Add in the black beans, coconut milk and stock. Bring to a boil and lower heat to a simmer. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the mixture is thick.

5. Use an immersion blender or blender to puree the soup until half-smooth and still a little chunky. Add more stock if you want a brothier soup.

6. Stir in the juice of the remaining lime half and 1/2 cup of chopped cilantro leaves. Taste and add more salt and lime juice as needed. Serve topped with the pickled onions and more chopped cilantro, and with lime wedges alongside.