While the racetrack was empty at the California State Fair on Saturday, the grandstand was full of fair-goers.

The grandstand hosted the Best of California BrewFest, which provided three ounce samples of beers from across the state, including local offerings like Touchstone Brewing Co. in downtown Sacramento and DarkHeart Brewing in Citrus Heights.

DarkHeart owner Cynthia Lee poured small glasses of four different beers for guests. Her favorite is her brewery’s Scottish Ale, WeeHeavenly.

“It’s so romantic,” Lee said of the beer. The recipe was designed for her friend’s wedding, and it also captured the heart of the Brewfest’s judges: WeeHeavenly topped the field of British Strong Ales at the State Fair’s brewing competition.

But the brewery’s most popular offering on Saturday was its Blackberry Imperial Stout — a beer DarkHeart did not enter in the competition. Within two hours, it had already run out. Across the Best of California BrewFest, attendees frequently preferred dark horses to beers that judges had earlier deemed medal winners, signaling a mismatch between the judge’s metrics and the public’s taste.

California breweries were invited to submit entries on March 31 for the State Fair’s commercial craft beer competition. In mid-May, panels of judges blind-tasted more than 150 beers in categories ranging from “American-Style Fruit Beer” to “Experimental Beer.” For “a world-class beer that accurately exemplifies the specified style, displaying the proper balance of taste, aroma, and appearance,” judges award a gold medal, according to the competition’s guide.

But Tina Chhaly, a BrewFest attendee, was not concerned with beers conforming to benchmarks. She just wanted something tasty. Chhaly said her favorite was Garage Brewing Co.’s Ube Hazy IPA — an unconventional blend of hops, coconut and the titular purple yam.

“It was sweet but smooth,” Chhaly said.

Her enjoyment was echoed by Jenny Fuller, another BrewFest attendee. After trying all the offerings, which ranged from ciders to lagers to stouts, she said the Ube IPA stuck out.

“I just really liked it because you could really taste the fruit,” Fuller said. “It was good for a hot day.”

Despite the wide appeal, Garage Brewing Co. lacked recognition from the judges. The brewery opted not to submit any beers to the State Fair’s competition, according to the log of entries.

The Ube IPA had some detractors, too.

“I feel like it’s trying too hard,” said Mariam Nersisyan, who volunteered at the Brewfest to pour beer samples for attendees. She preferred Garage Brewing Co.’s Mango Hefeweizen, which won gold at the Los Angeles International Beer Competition.