MONTECITO, Calif. >> Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, is already anticipating pushback on her banana pudding.

“I know some people will be upset that I took out the wafers,” she said, crushing Nilla wafers with a rolling pin rather than layering them in with vanilla pudding and sliced bananas. “But I like them crumbled on top.”

On a bright morning recently at her home in Montecito, Calif., Meghan roved between the garden, where Prince Harry stopped by the strawberry patch in Birkenstocks to say he was getting on a work call, and the vast, well-worn kitchen where her mother, Doria Ragland — graceful in jeans, white T-shirt and silver nose ring — rummaged for breakfast in the double-wide refrigerator.

“Grandma Jeanette would have used instant,” Meghan said, referring to Ragland’s mother, as they tasted a batch of homemade pudding flecked with vanilla. “But she would have loved this.”

Last month, in a new Netflix series, “With Love, Meghan,” the duchess gave the world its first look at the remake of her life from broken royal bride to triumphant domestic goddess. She and Harry fled Britain and its relentless criticism in 2020 to settle as a family in this safe, sunny, affluent enclave. But the show has brought some of that darkness back to her door.

Like Gwyneth Paltrow, Chrissy Teigen and other celebrities who have cooking and lifestyle brands, Meghan doesn’t have professional culinary training. Last week’s visit — the first time a reporter was invited into her kitchen — showed that she is a passionate home cook who knows her way around a vinaigrette, is quick with a lemon zester and deft with a knife. (I was allowed in on the condition that no photographs were taken in, or of, the house, for reasons of privacy and security.)

At 43, with boundless enthusiasm and big Charlotte York energy, she is still figuring out her public identity, while pitching it to a global audience. Her decision to do so may read to some as entrepreneurial or endearing or narcissistic, but you can’t say it isn’t a big swing.

It’s about to get bigger. One week ago on Wednesday morning, sales went live for As Ever, Meghan’s line of food products priced from $12 to $15, including baking mixes, honeys and internet-famous jams — which, to her dismay, are labeled “fruit spreads” because of FDA regulations. They all sold out within an hour, a spokesperson said. (The brand was initially announced as American Riviera Orchard but was reportedly changed after trademark challenges.)

Recently, Meghan announced that she would host a new podcast series, “Confessions of a Female Founder,” and started a ShopMy channel where fans can buy the clothing and products they see her in onscreen, from head (Lottabody’s Control Me Edge Gel) to toe (CND Shellac).

“With Love, Meghan” presents her in a series of idyllic scenes (none of which were shot in this kitchen — a nearby house was used as a studio), cooking, crafting and planning tea parties. But anyone who thought that truffle popcorn and balloon arches would be uncontroversial was wrong.

When the show appeared, the millions who have long felt entitled to critique Meghan as a member of the British royal family were free to judge her as a wife, mother, cook, decorator and hostess. And many did, calling her saccharine, inauthentic and uninspiring. She was compared to Hannah Neeleman of Ballerina Farm and other influencers riding the tradwife wave, who glamorize old-fashioned “women’s work,” like feeding chickens and cooking breakfast, that many women have no desire to return to.

The best episodes frame Meghan as a respectful student of chefs like Alice Waters and Roy Choi. In others, she is the teacher, demonstrating recipes like pasta salad and entertaining tips to a series of friends, who are charged with showing enthusiasm while she hands them a raw fish or ties a bow on a gift bag of peanut-butter-stuffed pretzels. Those episodes came in for the most mockery.

Some criticism was more pointed: Social media posts zeroed in on her Le Creuset pots, claiming they were too expensive for many Black women to afford and more ostentatious than traditional cast-iron. In response, Black women began posting photos of their extensive Le Creuset collections online. Journalist Michele Norris came to Meghan’s defense, asking: “Why is anyone surprised or disturbed that she would have beautiful color coordinated cookware? Does anyone drag Ina or Martha for their cookware?”

In an interview, she noted that singling Meghan out for not using her “real” kitchen is also illogical. “Every set is a performative kitchen,” said Norris, who hosts a podcast about cuisine and culture. “I think she manages to present an authentic version of herself within that artificial space. What’s so bad about someone wanting to share their joy?”

“Everybody has somebody or something they want her to be,” said Carla Hall, who was a model before she was a chef, and whose culinary credentials were also questioned when she started her TV career. “There’s no winning that game.”

Which raises a question: Why would someone who has for years endured the worst kind of public attention put herself back under the microscope?

One reason is money. The production deal Meghan and Harry signed with Netflix in 2020 ends this year, and most of their other recent efforts — documentaries about polo and Harry’s Invictus games — flopped. But Netflix is betting on her: The show has already shot a second season, and the company is an investor in her As Ever brand.

And despite the criticism, in the past month millions of fans have showed up for her. According to Netflix, the show was in the top 10 in 24 countries in the week after the premiere, with 2.6 million views. Many of the clothes on Meghan’s ShopMy page sold out within hours or days. Since Jan. 1, when she started a fresh Instagram account (she deleted the old one shortly before marrying into the royal family), she has gained 2.7 million followers.

The other reason is personal. “I need to work, and I love to work,” she said, pointing out that until she met Harry, she hadn’t been without a job since she was 13. With two young children to raise, she said, “This is a way I can connect my home life and my work.” (Prince Archie is 5 and Princess Lilibet is 3; they are sixth and seventh in line to the throne.)

A cook’s progress

When Meghan was growing up in Los Angeles, her mother worked long hours and had little time for home cooking. But Ragland was raised with a strong food tradition.

Her father, Alvin, had roots in Tennessee. “My father carried a bottle of Red Rooster hot sauce everywhere he went,” she said.

For her mother, Jeanette, as for many Black women of her time, cooking and gardening skills were a given. At home, in the Crenshaw neighborhood, Meghan said, her grandmother grew collard greens and tomatoes in the yard, whipped up hand pies from scratch after dinner, and did nearly all her cooking in one cast-iron skillet.

What may help Meghan stand out in the crowded field of food influencing is her eye for detail. Calligraphy and gift-wrapping skills she developed to pick up extra money are now put to work in leveling layer cakes and fluffing salads, just so. She truly cares which direction the radishes are pointing on the charcuterie board, and she really does sometimes transfer takeout food onto serving dishes. (I have seen the platters).

To finish the pudding, she got out the hand mixer to make Chantilly cream — the vanilla-spiked, sweetened whipped cream that would give the dessert its name: Chantilly Lili, after the 3-year-old redhead who had just arrived home.

Ragland said she still wasn’t convinced that she needed a hand mixer of her own; she has a KitchenAid stand mixer at home in Los Angeles. The duchess rolled her eyes at her mother, as daughters do.

“My mom still has Grandma Jeanette’s cast-iron skillet,” she whispered to me. “That’s what I really want.”

Spring Garden Pasta Salad

A perfectly quick spring or summer dinner, this recipe draws on Meghan’s kitchen garden in Montecito, California, and her fondness for meals filled with vegetables. “Use a healthy dose of garlic, mint and whatever fresh green vegetables you have on hand,” she said. — Recipe from Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, adapted by Julia Moskin

Yield: 4 to 6 servings. Total Time: 45 minutes.

Ingredients

Salt

1 pound rigatoni

Extra-virgin olive oil

3 shallots, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 small zucchini, diced

1 cup snap peas, strings removed

1/2 cup green peas (see tip)

1 small bunch Lacinato kale or Swiss chard, stems and leaves separated, both finely sliced

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1 lemon, preferably Meyer

Parmesan or manchego cheese or both, for serving

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh mint leaves, for serving

DIRECTIONS

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season generously with salt. Add the rigatoni and cook according to the package’s directions.

2. While the pasta cooks, heat a large skillet over medium-high and add enough oil to coat the bottom. Add the shallots and garlic, season with salt and cook, stirring often, until just starting to soften, 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Add the zucchini, snap peas, green peas and kale stems to the skillet. Season with salt and cook, stirring often, just until crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the kale leaves, season with salt and stir just until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

4. Reserve 1/2 cup pasta cooking water and drain the pasta. Transfer to a large bowl and drizzle with oil to lightly coat. If the pasta seems dry, add a splash of pasta water.

5. Scrape everything from the skillet over the pasta and add the tomatoes. Zest the lemon on top, then squeeze in juice from half the lemon and stir to evenly coat. Toss, taste and add more lemon juice, salt, olive oil and pasta water to taste.

6. Finely grate cheese and grind pepper all over. Tear the mint and scatter it on top. Serve warm or at room temperature.

TIP: Frozen peas work well here and don’t need to be thawed before they’re added to the pan. If you have fresh English peas, boil them in salted water until bright green and crisp tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain well, rinse under cold water and drain again before adding to the sauté.

Chantilly Lili

This dessert, named for Meghan’s daughter, Princess Lilibet, is based on a banana pudding recipe of Meghan’s grandmother. In the Southern classic, vanilla pudding is layered with cookies and sliced banana; Meghan’s version adds the sweet-tart sting of strawberries macerated with lemon. She happens to have a passion fruit vine in her garden, and its yellow seeds make a nice, juicy garnish. This layered pudding can be made in individual glasses for a party, or a big bowl for a family night in. — Recipe from Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, adapted by Julia Moskin

Yield: 6 servings. Total time: 2 3/4 hours.

Ingredients

For the vanilla pudding:

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 cups whole milk

1/3 cup sugar

3 large egg yolks

1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter

1 teaspoon vanilla paste or extract

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

For the fruit and assembly:

8 ounces strawberries, sliced (1 1/2 cups)

1 tablespoon sugar, plus more to taste

1 lemon

1 ripe banana

4 vanilla wafers, finely crushed

Mint leaves, for garnish

1 passion fruit (optional)

For the Chantilly cream:

3/4 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon vanilla paste or extract

DIRECTIONS

1. Make the pudding: Whisk the cornstarch and 1/4 cup milk in a small bowl until smooth. Whisk the sugar, yolks and remaining 1 3/4 cups milk in a medium saucepan. Whisk the cornstarch mixture again, then whisk into the saucepan.

2. Set over medium heat and whisk continuously until thickened and beginning to bubble, 5 to 7 minutes. Let boil gently, still whisking, for 2 minutes. Scrape into a bowl and whisk in the butter, vanilla and salt until the butter melts.

3. Press plastic wrap directly against the surface and refrigerate until cold and set, at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

4. Half an hour before serving, prepare the fruit: Gently stir the strawberries with the sugar. Zest half the lemon on top and squeeze in 1 teaspoon juice. Stir again, then taste and add more sugar to taste. Macerate by letting the berries stand to soften and sweeten at room temperature for 30 minutes.

5. Make the cream: Whisk the cream by hand or with an electric mixer in a bowl until soft peaks form. Add the sugar and vanilla and whisk until medium peaks form.

6. To assemble: Cut the banana into thin slices. Whisk the chilled pudding vigorously until smooth and airy and dollop a spoonful in each of 6 small serving glasses. Spread to cover the bottom if needed. Divide the banana among the cups, then cover with another spoonful of pudding and spread two-thirds of the berries on top, leaving behind any juices. Cover with the remaining pudding. Dollop the cream on top and top with the remaining berries (without juices). Garnish with cookie crumbs, mint and passion fruit seeds, if using. Serve immediately.