Whole-wheat penne rigate, a hefty meat sauce, and plenty of ricotta and mozzarella come together in this protein-packed dish of baked pasta. When the temperature drops, appetites veer toward heartier fare and this dish satisfies the need for something filling and comforting. Traditional Bolognese sauce, made with ground beef, sometimes in combination with pork, simmers for a few hours with milk, wine, and tomatoes. It's a project for a weekend. This quicker, less traditional, sauce allows you to assemble the dish in about half an hour. Penne rigate is short tubular-shaped pasta with ridges; it catches the sauce better than smooth penne.

Start the sauce, and while it cooks, put on a pot of water to boil; you'll also need to mix the ricotta with Parmesan and seasonings. By the time the pasta is cooked, the sauce should be ready. Combine the sauce and pasta and transfer it to a baking dish. Spoon the ricotta into shallow indents you make on the top. Add a good amount of mozzarella. After 30 hands-free minutes, your dinner will be golden and bubbly.

SALLY PASLEY VARGAS

Baked Penne with Quick Bolognese

Serves 4 generously

BOLOGNESE

½ medium onion, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 large carrot, thickly sliced

1 large stalk celery, thickly sliced

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound ground beef

½ teaspoon salt

Pinch of black pepper

½ cup whole milk

1 can (28 ounces) whole peeled tomatoes, crushed in a bowl

1. In a food processor, combine the onion, carrots, and celery. Pulse until they are finely chopped.

2. In a large, deep skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until they soften. Add the beef, salt, and pepper. Cook, breaking up the meat with a potato masher or a kitchen spoon, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it is crumbly and no longer pink.

3. Add the milk to the skillet and cook the mixture, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until it evaporates. Add the tomatoes and bring the sauce to a simmer. Adjust the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

PASTA

Salt and pepper, to taste

½ pound whole-wheat penne rigate

1½ cups whole-milk ricotta

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

6 ounces grated mozzarella (1½ cups)

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand a 9-by-13-inch baking dish (or another dish with a 3-quart capacity).

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring often, for 1 minute less than the package directions. Since the pasta will be baked later, you can undercook it just a little at this point.

3.In a bowl, mix the ricotta, Parmesan, parsley, pepper, and a pinch of salt.

4. Drain the pasta into a colander but do not rinse. Add it to the skillet of sauce. Toss to blend them.

5. Transfer the pasta to the baking dish. With a spoon, make about 8 depressions in the pasta. Spoon rounded tablespoons of ricotta on top, nestling them into the hollows you have created. Sprinkle the mozzarella on top.

6. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the cheese is golden and the sauce is bubbling at the edges. Sally Pasley Vargas