If you hear anyone say that they are looking for ‘leg of mutton’, don’t rush to find them an online meat delivery service. They are probably referring to the sleeve of sari blouses.

As Indian festive wear gets increasingly imaginative, pulling together a cohesive look can be fairly overwhelming. On Instagram, several Indian sari stylists are voting #unblouse, suggesting that wearers innovate and experiment with styles. The leg of mutton, for instance, is a sleeve that is puffed at the shoulder with a straight, fitted finish on the arm. Then there is the regal-looking gathered sleeves, capes, or even power shoulders that add a sharp look to the ensemble.

Blouses, now, tell a story. It can be the embroidery on the back or a sleeve that completely transforms your look. Blouses available online are all about ‘one blouse, many saris’, and can also be used as crop tops with skirts and sporty denims.

They can cost anything from ₹1,500 to upwards of ₹5,000, made in material that ranges from cotton to silk. The Safed sari collection on handmade apparel brand Chidiya’s website features a blouse with a closed neckline and pleats. There is a versatile wrap blouse with intricate Kutch embroidery on Okhai and another one calledLaal Mahamaya in organza and silk from Kolkata’s independent fashion label Parama Ghosh.

“Try a ruffle sleeve blouse with a georgette sari,” suggests Hyderabad-based designer Sravanthy Anand, “or a chiffon sari with a front-tie-up on a sharp V-neck”.  Mumbai-based sari stylist Ashwini Narayan almost never wears a traditional blouse with her nine yards. Instead, she opts for anything from a shirt to a leather jacket.

Parama — who started retailing blouses with heavy embroidered backs in 2015 — is considered the ‘OG’ by many contemporary saree drapers. She says, her collection, featuring blouses with modern cuts and influenced by Victorian laces and frills, is an extension of her personal style.

As an advocate of the traditional drape, Parama says, sari should not be looked at strictly as conservative bhadramahila attire. “It is a traditional attire and deserves a fun and funky look.” Parama’s Athangudi blouse collection is inspired by designs on handmade tiles.

Addressing how fast fashion brands have quickly taken the cue and introduced corsetry-inspired cropped tops that can be worn with a sari as well as denims, Sravanthy says she is all for modern styles and cuts in traditional textiles. “When the sleeve or strap of a blouse is interesting, it is hard to find anyone who would refuse to wear a sari.” 

Anisha Pal of Chidiya agrees. She says tank tops, and noodle straps add an interesting, new dimension to a sari. “We have paired sarees with buttoned-down shirts, and peplum tops,” she says and adds, “Sweetheart necklines, wrap arounds and blouson tops are trending with young wearers.”