Rescue request leads to charges
Doctor seeking airlift off Denali claimed illness
Officials say Dr. Jason Lance falsely reported to park officials that his climbing companions needed emergency evacuation.
By Amanda Holpuch, New York Times

A doctor is facing federal charges after falsely reporting in May that a pair of climbers he had joined in a makeshift expedition on Denali, the tallest mountain in North America, had fallen ill and needed a high-risk helicopter rescue, prosecutors said.

They said in a complaint that Dr. Jason Lance, a radiology specialist from Mountain Green, Utah, was actually seeking an evacuation for himself after another climber, Adam Rawski of British Columbia, who was evacuated following a 1,000-foot fall down the mountain.

Denali, in south-central Alaska, is the third tallest of the seven summits, the highest mountains on each continent. The National Park Service reported an increase in dangerous behavior during this year’s climbing season, which follows a similar pattern in other wilderness areas during the coronavirus pandemic. Denali, a 20,310-foot peak formerly known as Mount McKinley, was closed to climbers in 2020.

This was the rare case that resulted in federal prosecution. Lance was charged with resisting and intentionally interfering with a government employee, violating an order of a government employee, and giving a false report for the purpose of misleading a government employee, the US attorney’s office for the District of Alaska said in a complaint filed Tuesday.

Contacted after a report appeared in the Anchorage Daily News, Lance would not comment. “Thanks for reaching out,’’ he wrote in e-mail. “As much as I’d like to discuss the complaint, I’ve been advised not to.’’

Three days after his climb, park service rangers at Denali warned in a blog post that they had seen several “troubling trends’’ during the season, including people showing “a disturbing amount of overconfidence paired with inexperience,’’ and climbers attempting to summit Denali too quickly.

A Denali guide, Colby Coombs, said that guides had to assist people who weren’t their clients more than usual this year and that he was glad Lance was facing federal charges. “I hope it sends a message, because someone is going to get hurt who is a rescuer and that would be a huge travesty,’’ Coombs said.

Few pilots can navigate a helicopter rescue above 17,000 feet and such short-haul operations put the pilot and rescuer in danger. The park service did send a helicopter for the group, but it turned around when guides lower on the mountain said the three climbers were making their way down on their own.

Coombs, who has climbed Denali 37 times and is the co-founder of the Alaska Mountaineering School, said details in the complaint suggested the doctor should not have been climbing without a guide.

One red flag was that Lance and Rawski were not registered as climbing partners, did not know each other well, and had decided to work together shortly before the summit attempt, Coombs said.

On May 24, the two attempted the summit, and Rawski showed signs of altitude sickness. Lance left Rawski with two other climbers they met along the way. That pair abandoned their own summit attempt to aid Rawski. Lance continued up the mountain, the complaint said.

Ultimately, he abandoned his solo climb and reunited with the other three as they approached Denali Pass, a key marker on the route. Disaster struck there when Rawski tumbled down a 1,000-foot length of the slope.

Several climbers, including Lance, reported the fall. Lance then used a satellite communication device to text for assistance, saying they were stuck without equipment. The park service advised him to descend.

Nearly two hours after that first request, Lance again texted to ask for evacuation, this time adding that the two people he was with were sick with shock and “early hypothermia.’’

The two other climbers later told investigators they had never experienced shock or hypothermia and had spent hours trying to persuade Lance to rope up with them and descend the mountain after Rawski fell. They said Lance insisted they stay put and told the other two climbers the park service was obligated to rescue them.