Makes one 9-by-13-inch rectangle

Olive oil, and then more olive oil, is the key to delicious focaccia. In this tomato-topped version, supermarket pizza dough is transformed into a thick, herby flatbread by giving the cold dough time to rise in a warm place and then pre-baking it for a few minutes so the dough rises to its full potential. Top with tomatoes, plenty of salt, and herbs, and bake again. The juices from the tomatoes sink into the dough and flavor the bread. Use an array of heirloom tomatoes in various colors to make a colorful pattern on top. Five ingredients make a spectacular dish. Leftovers for breakfast.

⅓ cup olive oil, or more if needed

Flour (for sprinkling)

1½ pounds prepared pizza dough

Flaky sea salt, to taste

⅓ cup chopped fresh herbs (rosemary, oregano, thyme)

3 pounds heirloom tomatoes, sliced into ¼-inch thick rounds

1. Have on hand a quarter sheet pan or a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Line it with parchment paper.

2. Set the oven at 200 degrees, or at its lowest setting. When it reaches the temperature setting, turn the oven off.

3. Spread 2 tablespoons of oil on the parchment paper.

4. On a lightly floured board, roll the dough into a rectangle that is slightly larger than the size of your pan. If the dough snaps back, cover it with a clean kitchen towel and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes, then roll it again. (Cold dough will often shrink after it is rolled, but a rest makes it relax.)

5. Transfer the dough to the parchment-lined pan. Press and stretch it into the corners. Drizzle with another 2 tablespoons of oil, and use the tips of your fingers to spread the oil and dimple the dough to form small impressions all over it.

6. Set the pan in the turned-off oven and prop the oven door open a crack with the handle of a wooden spoon. Let the dough rise for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until it looks plump and slightly puffed.

7. Remove the pan from the oven. Drizzle the dough again with a little more oil and dimple it again with your fingers. Sprinkle the top with about ¼ teaspoon sea salt and half the herbs.

8. Set the oven at 425 degrees.

9. Bake the dough for 10 minutes.

10. Remove the dough from the oven and top with the tomatoes, overlapping them slightly to cover the dough. Sprinkle with more oil, and spread it over the tomatoes with your fingers. Sprinkle the tomatoes with more salt.

11. Return the pan to the oven. Bake the focaccia for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the tomatoes are soft and the edges of the focaccia are crisp and golden. Let cool in the pan for 10 minutes.

12. Use a large spatula to release the dough from the sides and bottom of the pan and transfer it to a cutting board, discarding the parchment paper. Sprinkle with the remaining herbs and cut into squares. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Sally Pasley Vargas

Sally Pasley Vargas can be reached at sally.p.vargas@gmail.com.