Growing up in an Italian family, food was everything. Every holiday, celebration or weekly Sunday dinner was centered around food. Gathering everyone to the table was the most important part of the day, and I am so thankful to be able to carry on these traditions with my family.

Once December rolled around, the baking began and lasted all month long. My grandmother made so many wonderful Christmas cookies every year, cookies that are more traditional and cookies that I have never really seen anywhere else. The variety included flavors of chocolate, cinnamon, anise, sesame and many more.

While I was going through my grandmother’s recipe book, I began noticing the intriguing Italian Christmas cookies. The ones made with fig, ricotta and wine got my attention, and some of these have not been made in my family for more than 30 years.

Turdilli

These Italian wine cookies are from the Calabria region and are made of flour, cinnamon and red wine, then dredged in honey. Although the ingredients are what really make these cookies special, the method of making them is unusual. The dough is rolled out into a long rope and then cut into half-inch pieces. Each piece is shaped on a gnocchi board. Or, if you want to make them like my grandmother, you shape the dough on cut crystal. The dough is then fried in vegetable oil and rolled in warm honey to create the perfect glaze.

Cassatedde

Cassatedde are more like a pastry to me, but they still fall under the Italian cookie section in grandma’s recipe book. These ricotta-filled pastries are often also known as sweet ravioli. They are made with a flaky fried dough and filled with a creamy ricotta, eggs, powdered sugar and sometimes chocolate chips. Once the cassatedde are fried and golden brown, each piece is lightly dusted with powdered sugar for a finishing touch.

Cucidati

Cucidati are Italian fig cookies that originated in Sicily. These were my absolute favorite Christmas cookies when I was young because of the depth of flavor. The fig filling is a combination of dried figs, raisins, almonds, hazelnuts, orange zest, lemon zest and cinnamon rolled in a tender, buttery cookie dough. I prefer to make these in a log and then slice them immediately after removing them from the oven. Each cookie is topped with a simple milkand-sugar glaze and then garnished with colorful sprinkles. Super festive!

Kristen Massad of Dallas, a pastry chef and graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York, blogs at inhfoods.com..

CUCIDATI (ITALIAN FIG COOKIES)

4 cups all-purpose flour

3 teaspoons baking powder y, cup granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup shortening 1/2 to 1/4 cup milk (add more if dough is dry) 1 egg Fig Filling (recipe follows) Glaze (recipe follows) Sprinkles, for garnish (optional)

In a mixer with a paddle attachment, combine the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. Slowly add the shortening until a crumblike texture forms.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the milk and egg, then add to the dry ingredients until dough comes together.

Remove the dough from the bowl, knead until smooth, divide the dough into four pieces and wrap each in plastic wrap. Refrigerate the dough for 45 minutes before using.

Make the fig filling: In a food processor, combine 1 cup dried figs, 1 cup raisins, 2 tablespoons orange juice, zest from 1 lemon and 1 orange, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/2 cup toasted almonds and 1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts. Pulse the ingredients until smooth and fully combined. Use immediately or store in airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Assemble: Heat oven to 375 F and line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

Dust flour on your work surface and roll out one section of the dough Ys-inch thick, approximately 10 inches by 4 inches. (Trim the edges of the dough to be clean and straight.)

Add the fig filling down the center of the dough, about 1/2-inch thick. Fold the dough over the filling to cover and seal it so that you cannot see any of the fig filling.

Transfer the cookie log onto a baking sheet. Repeat the process for all four sections of dough.

Bake the cookie logs for 12 minutes or until edges are turning slightly golden. Remove the tray from the oven and immediately slice the cookies into 72-inch-thick pieces.

Make the glaze: Whisk together 2 cups powdered sugar, 3 to 4 tablespoons milk and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract until smooth.

Pour the glaze over each cookie and garnish with sprinkles.

Serve immediately or store in an airtight container for 2 weeks.

Makes 4 dozen cookies.

PER SERVING: Calories 139 (39% from fat), Fat 6 g (1 g sat), Cholesterol 4 mg, Sodium 47 mg, Fiber 1 g, Carbohydrates 20 g, Protein 2 g, Sugar 12 g

CASSATEDDE (SICILIAN STUFFED PASTRY)

4 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons shortening 1/2 to 1 cup water (add more or less for the right consistency, similar to pie dough) Ricotta Filling (recipe follows) 4 cups vegetable oil, for frying Powdered sugar, for garnish In a food processor, combine flour, salt and sugar, and pulse.

Add the shortening and pulse until it creates a crumblike texture.

Slowly pour in the water and continue pulsing until the dough comes together. Knead the dough into a ball. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Make the ricotta filling: In a mixing bowl with a paddle attachment, combine 1 pound ricotta cheese, 2 egg yolks, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and 1/2 cup powdered sugar.

Mix on medium speed until fully combined. Fold in mini chocolate chips (optional). Use immediately or store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Assemble: Remove the dough from the refrigerator and divide into four sections. Roll out one section of dough to 1/4-inch thick and cut out 3-inch circles.

Scoop 1 teaspoon of ricotta filling in the center of each circle. Press the dough over to create a half moon or crescent shape and seal the ends using a fork. Repeat with all sections of dough.

Once all the dough is used, heat the vegetable oil in a large pot to 350 F. Place the dumplings into the oil (do not overlap them) and fry until golden brown.

Remove from the oil and place on a paper towel. Allow them to cool, dust with powdered sugar and serve.

Makes 4 dozen cookies.

PER SERVING: Calories 73 (37% from fat), Fat 3 g (1 g sat), Cholesterol 11 mg, Sodium 38 mg, No fiber, Carbohydrates 11 g, Protein 2 g, Sugar 4 g

TURDILLI (ITALIAN WINE COOKIES)

4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon baking powder 2 eggs 1 cup red wine

1/2 cup vegetable oil, plus

4 cups for deep frying

2 cups honey

In a large bowl or mixing bowl with a paddle attachment, combine the flour, salt, cinnamon and baking powder and set aside.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, wine and 1/2 cup vegetable oil.

Slowly pour the wine mixture over the dry ingredients, either mixing with your hand or using the paddle attachment. Mix until just combined.

Remove the dough from the bowl and knead until smooth.

Shape the dough into a ball, wrap with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.

Once the dough has rested, dust a surface with flour and cut the dough into 6 pieces. Roll each piece into a log about y 2-inch thick.

Cut the log into 1/2-inch pieces and press onto a gnocchi board (or press with fork tines) to create the texture and shape.

Heat 4 cups vegetable oil to 350 F in a large frying pan and fry the cookies until medium brown. Remove the cookies from the fryer onto a paper towel to absorb any extra oil.

Allow the cookies to cool.

Heat honey in a small saucepan until warm (not boiling). Dip the cookies into the honey to coat them completely. Remove the cookies from the honey with a slotted spoon and place them on a serving platter.

Enjoy or store in airtight container for 1 week.

Makes 10 dozen cookies.

PER COOKIE: Calories 46 (39% from fat), Fat 2 g, Cholesterol 3 mg, Sodium 13 mg, No fiber, Carbohydrates 8 g, Protein 1 g, Sugar 5 g