WHAT’S FOR DINNER?

Every time I run my fork across the just-cooked inside sofa spaghetti squash, it surprises me a little: swirls of thin noodle-like strands tangle into the tines, just like the real thing. What else turns itself into noodles without a special piece of equipment? Plus, spaghetti squash is so easy. All you do is halve it, steam it in a little bit of water in the oven, and you’re done. Spaghetti squash is nearly flavorless, so be sure to salt it when you’re fluffing the noodle-y insides out of its shell.

You can use spaghetti squash any way you’d use regular spaghetti, but with the caveat that it’s going to be wetter than any regular noodle. So saucy dishes, like the pesto one below, don’t call attention to its moisture, whereas the fritters are a little soft in the middle because of this, even if you smash them down all the way.

SPAGHETTI SQUASH WITH PESTO 

1 spaghetti squash 

1 pint cherry tomatoes Sea salt, to taste 

1 tablespoon olive oil 

2 tablespoons pine nuts 

2 heaping tablespoons store-bought pesto 

Parmesan cheese, for serving 

Fresh basil, for serving 

Heat oven to 425F.

Slice the spaghetti squash in half lengthwise. Put the halves flesh-side down in a glass casserole dish with 1 inch of water.

Cover with foil. Bake 45 minutes to 1 hour or until soft to the touch.

While the squash is cooking, halve your tomatoes and sprinkle them with salt. Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until soft, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove the spaghetti squash from the insides with a fork and put it into a bowl.

Add the tomatoes, pine nuts and pesto and mix well. Serve on two plates with Parmesan and basil.

Makes 2 servings.

TEX-MEXY SPAGHETTI SQUASH FRITTERS 

1 /2 of a spaghetti squash, cooked (about 4 cups) 

1 /2 cup chickpea flour 

3 green onions, chopped 

1 jalapeño, chopped 

1 /2 cup grated Monterey 

Jack cheese Sea salt 

1 /2 teaspoon cumin 

1 /4 teaspoon chili powder 

1 /4 cup oil Sour cream, for serving Salsa, for serving 

Chopped cilantro, for serving In a large bowl, mix the squash with the chickpea flour, onions, jalapeño, cheese, salt and spices. Taste for seasonings.

Put a little oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.

Using a large spoon or scoop (I use No. 24), make your fritters by putting the balls directly into the skillet and flattening them with your fingers. Or, if you want them super crisp, use the back of your spatula. Cook until browned on both sides. Repeat with all of the mixtures.

Serve with sour cream, salsa and chopped cilantro. Makes 12 fritters.