WHO’S IN CHARGE It’s good to shake things up once in a while. Owners Tom and Cathy Guertner did just that when they celebrated Periwinkles’ 20th anniversary last month. Along with it, they introduced a new chef, Ty Nolen, 27, who has wasted no time, rolling out new additions like sushi, oysters, craft beer pairings, and the concept of small plates for sharing. Yet there’s still an allegiance to Periwinkles’ longstanding menu of seafood classics like Essex fried clams and award-winning clam chowder that locals favor and tourists seek.
THE LOCALE Large picture windows frame the tranquil landscape: a meandering Essex River, sailboats, kayaks, fishing boats, and the historic H. A. Burnham shipyard. Two outdoor decks bring you even closer, whetting your appetite like no appetizer can.
A cornerstone restaurant in Essex for 50 years (called “Skipper’s Gallery’’ for 30 years prior), it might have visitors believing they’re on Cape Cod with its decor of nautical lanterns, white-washed walls, and a narrow pinewood bar tucked away in the back. Paintings from the Eventide Fine Art Gallery cover the walls if you want to bring this tranquility home.
ON THE MENU We started with the sushi special that day, “D’yerma’ker’’ ($16), a playful name Nolen created hinting at its Jamaican ties with yellow, red, and green colors: tuna, avocado, and carrots rolled inside the white rice, topped by thin slices of tuna and mango with a dark soy sauce drizzle and a light sprinkle of sesame seeds.
We found the oyster special ($1.50 each) featuring three varieties hard to resist. The deep cupped Misty Point from Pope Bay, Va., had a high salinity that faded to bright hints of celery and grass. Blue Point from Long Island, N.Y., had a very briny taste upfront, though a sweet aftertaste. The more local contender, from Duxbury, also was very briny and with its plump meat, had a sweet, buttery finish.
Forget the small plates and get your own. My husband resented sharing his pile of fried clams on the platter ($26). “Oh, these are so sweet,’’ he said trance-like, biting into one, then another. Local clam man Kelly Corrao, owner of Essex Shellfish, has been selling Tom Guertner the prized, small Essex clam — shucked fresh that day — for years. The coating, so light and golden, allowed the clams’ sweetness to unfold.
Keeping everything fresh is the theme here. You can taste the difference, even in the accompanying pint(s) of the locally brewed Ipswich Route 101 IPA ($7 each). The West Coast-styled, hoppy ale with its citrus-like punch and solid malt backbone went down easy.
To salute summer, I chose the half lobster roll and cup of chowder ($18). The portion was generously filled with chunks of lobster, lightly coated with mayo (the way I believe it’s meant to be). The cup of chowder, winner for 14 of the 16 years it competed in the local chowder festival, was traditional and creamy, filled with more clams than I expected.
We found the menu mix to be a winning combination all around.
Periwinkles Restaurant & Bar, 74 Main St., Essex. 978-768-6320, www.periwinklesrestaurant.com.
Kathy Shiels Tully can be reached at kathy@kathyshielstully.com.
