Copenhagen looked sad when I arrived. The early May sky in Denmark’s capital city was bright gray, the kind that can either evaporate into sunshine or knot up into inky darkness and unleash droves of rain. As drops began to spatter the pavement and the temperature dipped into the 30s, it seemed obvious that this was a place in active mourning of its lost title as theworld’s happiest country.
The World Happiness Report polls 155 countries to determine happiness by factors including income, employment, education, family life, and mental and physical health. Since the study’s inception in 2012, Denmark has won the title every year — except this one.
For the first time, 2017 saw Denmark’s bump to number two: Norway jumped three spots to clinch the title. Trailing closely in the ranking is Iceland and in fourth, Switzerland. The United States clocks in at 14, dropping one spot from last year.
But truthfully, Denmark is not all that sad, despite having an average of 179 rainy days per year. The top four happiest countries are so closely ranked that their differences are “barely statistically significant,’’ explains John Helliwell, co-editor of the report.
“There is something to be learned from the Nordic countries,’’ says Helliwell of the top-scoring locales. “People take each other seriously, with a higher degree of mutual regard and trust,’’ says Helliwell. “That’s not in the genes in those countries: It reflects the actual lived experience of life.’’
Indeed, the happiest countries all scored high on caring, freedom, generosity, honesty, health, income, and good governance. Norway, Denmark, and Iceland all offer at least five weeks of paid vacation time, more than 26 weeks of maternity leave, free college, and universal healthcare. Put simply, Scandinavians have less to stress about from day to day.
Philip Bonting, a New Zealand native who’s lived happily in Copenhagen for more than 20 years, says, “We have a very good social system here. We pay very high taxes, but we earn good money. We live very small. It’s cozy.’’
It’s true that Danes pay some of the highest taxes in the world: A whopping 55.8 percent of the average net national income of $42,935, according to OECD data. Denmark’s progressive system means higher taxes for higher earners, but the way of life here makes it more than worth it, Bonting says.
Beyond free health care and education, there’s the Nordic lifestyle hygge. It is so culturally entrenched that there’s not even a direct translation for the term in English: It’s meant to be felt, not described. You might find it fireside, curled beneath a chunky blanket during a blizzard, or at a candlelit dinner among good friends.
Meik Wiking is the CEO of the Happiness Research Institute, an independent think tank focusing on well-being, happiness and quality of life, based — of course — in Copenhagen. He’s also the author of “The Little Book of Hygge: Danish Secrets to Happy Living.’’
“Hygge is about an atmosphere and an experience,’’ Wiking explains in his book. “It is about being with the people we love. A feeling of home. A feeling that we are safe.’’ Hygge is a central pillar of Danish life, and a main reason why Wiking thinks the Danes are some of the happiest people on earth. (The word is Norwegian in origin.)
As I walk the cobbled streets of Copenhagen, I notice how that cozy vibe spills out onto the streets. On restaurant patios, each chair is draped with its own thick blanket, and tables are tucked between roaring heat lamps that have patrons shedding layers despite freezing temperatures. Very rarely do I spy an iPhone on the table, and neither Wi-Fi nor to-go coffees are common. Why would they be? Here, cafes are meant for leisurely sips and connecting with friends, not to the Internet.
All through the city, bicycles are propped against every building and railing, a clear testament to Copenhagen’s bike-first mentality. Each day, 265,700 bikes make their way into the city, compared to only 252,600 cars, which improves traffic, reduces pollution, and contributes to health and well being. The city has invested in its cycling infrastructure to cater to the 56 percent of city inhabitants who use their bikes daily, compared to a meager 14 percent of drivers.
But nonetheless, even with all this hygge happiness, Norway did indeed edge out Denmark and the rest to clinch the number one spot. Why?
Norway is rich in natural resources, a fact that Danish neighbors are acutely aware of. At a bar, I hear a local saying of Norway’s 5.1 million inhabitants, “They could each not work for three or four years and still get money. That’s how much money their oil nets.’’
But Helliwell thinks that’s a common misconception held by those who believe financial status is the hallmark of happiness, which isn’t how happiness is measured or how it’s experienced.
“Norway is as happy as they are in spite of their oil rather than because of it,’’ says Helliwell, who attributes that fact to Norway’s resource management. “They’re essentially taking the oil out of the North Sea and putting it in the bank for future generations. That reflects a maturity of government, a pro-sociality,’’ so that even when oil prices are down — which they are now — Norwegian society is not directly affected. “It’s not a great surprise that Norway could creep up to the top of the league this year.’’
But Danes aren’t exactly feeling the pinch. As he sidles into my booth, Bonting, who’s the manager at the traditional Danish Restaurant Puk says, “I know the truth of why the Norwegians are so happy.’’ He drops a hefty pour of Akvavit, a local spirit, into my glass. “Because they get to come to Copenhagen for holiday.’’
Jessica Teich can be reached at jessicarteich@gmail.com.