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At Tapestry, asparagus meets its match
Mary-Kate Horgan
By Ellen Bhang
Globe correspondent

Make your way to the stylish Club Room inside Fenway’s Tapestry, and you’ll find beverage director Anne Thompson pouring a white that complements hard-to-pair asparagus. A 2015 Casebianche “Cumalè’’ Fiano Cilento ($12 a glass, $46 a bottle) hails from Campania, in southern Italy. “The slightly green herbal taste is something that I’ve come to recognize,’’ says the beverage director about wine made from the fiano grape. (In this case, the varietal is grown organically on a 35-acre estate, dotted with olive and fig trees, in Salerno.) Full of flavors like lemon-lime and citrus pith, it’s excellent with asparagus a la plancha, cooked up by chef-owners Meghann Ward and Kevin Walsh. The bright green spears are seared on a steel griddle, then topped with scallions, ginger, and anise hyssop, also known as licorice mint. The vegetable’s snappy, sulfurous character has met its match, tamed by the wine’s “broad and soft’’ texture, and a palate that is not overly fruity or floral. “I like that it has meat on its bones,’’ Thompson enthuses, “yet is super crisp on the finish.’’

Ellen Bhang

Tapestry, 69 Kilmarnock St., Boston, 617-421-4470, www.tapestry.restaurant/club-room